
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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A bone-in pork shoulder bathed in pungent garlic-citrus mojo, slow-roasted until the meat surrenders to a fork and the skin turns golden and crackling. This is the centerpiece of Cuban Christmas, and it belongs on your table.
In Cuban households from Havana to Miami, Christmas Eve belongs to the pig. Not some dainty roast prettied up with herbs, but a whole shoulder, slashed to the bone, packed with enough garlic to ward off evil spirits and half the neighborhood. This is Lechón Asado, the anchor of Nochebuena, and it carries the weight of generations.
The mojo does the heavy lifting. Sour orange juice, which Cuban cooks call naranja agria, breaks down the muscle fibers while garlic, cumin, and oregano work their way into every crevice. You'll use more garlic than seems reasonable. That's correct. Cuban food whispers nothing. It announces itself from the kitchen to the street.
I first encountered this dish in Ybor City, Tampa's old cigar district, where Cuban and Spanish families had been roasting pigs since the 1880s. A man named Raúl showed me how his grandmother scored the shoulder, how she pushed the mojo into the cuts with her fingers, how she let time do what no oven could rush. Three generations of technique passed in an afternoon. That's how food traditions survive.
This recipe honors those methods while making the dish achievable in any home kitchen. You don't need a backyard pit or a whole pig. A bone-in pork shoulder and a roasting pan will deliver results that would make Raúl's grandmother nod with approval. Start the marinade two days before your feast. The waiting is part of the ritual.
Quantity
8-10 pounds
Quantity
20 (about 2 heads)
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
or substitute 1 cup orange juice plus 1/2 cup lime juice
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more for seasoning
Quantity
4
crumbled
Quantity
1 large
thickly sliced
Quantity
1 cup
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in pork shoulder, skin-on if available | 8-10 pounds |
| garlic cloves | 20 (about 2 heads) |
| sour orange juiceor substitute 1 cup orange juice plus 1/2 cup lime juice | 1 1/2 cups |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 1/2 cup |
| dried oregano | 2 tablespoons |
| ground cumin | 1 tablespoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 2 teaspoons |
| kosher salt | 1 tablespoon, plus more for seasoning |
| bay leavescrumbled | 4 |
| white onionthickly sliced | 1 large |
| chicken stock or water | 1 cup |
Place the pork shoulder fat-side up on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, cut deep slits into the meat at 2-inch intervals, angling the blade toward the bone. These cuts should penetrate 2 to 3 inches into the flesh. Turn the shoulder and repeat on all exposed surfaces. You're creating channels for the mojo to penetrate. Don't be timid. Shallow cuts waste your marinade on the surface where it can't transform the meat.
Smash the garlic cloves with the flat side of your knife to release their oils, then mince them coarsely. In a bowl, combine the garlic with sour orange juice, olive oil, oregano, cumin, black pepper, salt, and crumbled bay leaves. Whisk until the salt dissolves. The mixture should smell sharp and pungent, almost aggressive. That's the mojo announcing its intentions.
Place the pork in a large roasting pan or deep baking dish. Pour half the mojo over the meat, then use your fingers to push garlic and liquid deep into every cut you made. Flip the shoulder and repeat with the remaining mojo, working it into the slits on the underside. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. Forty-eight hours is better. Turn the shoulder once during marination if you remember, but don't lose sleep over it.
Remove the pork from the refrigerator 2 hours before cooking. Cold meat in a hot oven produces uneven results. The shoulder should lose its chill before meeting the heat. Preheat your oven to 350°F. Scatter the onion slices in the bottom of a heavy roasting pan. They'll caramelize and flavor your pan juices while preventing the pork from sticking.
Set the pork shoulder fat-side up on the onion bed. Pour any accumulated marinade from the dish over and around the meat. Add the chicken stock to the pan. Cover the roasting pan tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil, crimping the edges to trap steam. The covered phase breaks down collagen and keeps the meat moist. Place in the center of your oven.
Roast covered for 4 hours without opening the oven. The internal temperature should reach approximately 180°F during this phase. The meat won't be done, but it will be fundamentally changed. Collagen converts to gelatin. Tough fibers relax. The fat begins to render and baste from within. Your kitchen will smell like Christmas in Little Havana.
Remove the foil and increase the oven temperature to 400°F. Continue roasting uncovered for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, basting every 20 minutes with the pan juices. The exterior should turn deep mahogany, almost lacquered where the mojo has caramelized. If the skin was left on, it will crackle and blister into chicharrones. The internal temperature should reach 195-200°F when the pork is properly tender.
Transfer the pork to a cutting board or serving platter. Tent loosely with foil and let rest for 30 minutes. Resting is not optional. The muscle fibers relax and reabsorb juices that would otherwise flood your cutting board. Patience now prevents disappointment later. Use this time to finish your side dishes and strain the pan juices.
Pour the pan juices through a fine-mesh strainer into a fat separator or measuring cup. Let the fat rise to the surface and skim most of it away, leaving some for richness. Taste the remaining liquid. It should be intensely flavored, almost too strong on its own. That concentration is intentional. It will balance perfectly when drizzled over the mild pork.
The meat should pull apart easily with two forks, but traditional service calls for thick slices carved against the grain. Locate the bone and cut parallel to it, producing substantial pieces that show off the roast's character. Arrange on a warm platter and drizzle generously with the strained pan juices. Scatter any crispy skin pieces over the top. Serve immediately with the remaining mojo alongside for guests who want more.
1 serving (about 350g)
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