
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Chtapodi me Kritharaki (Χταπόδι με Κριθαράκι)
Aegean island octopus, tomato, red wine, and toasted kritharaki share one pot, so the pasta drinks the briny sauce and stays glossy instead of turning heavy.
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Crete's summer fish with okra is baked in tomato and olive oil, with vinegar-salted bamies that stay whole under firm white fish.
Psari me bamies belongs to Crete in high summer, when okra is small, tomatoes are heavy with juice, and the fish is whatever the day's catch allows. It is not a fancy dish. It is a baking dish of bamies, okra, softened in tomato and olive oil, with firm white fish laid over the top so it cooks gently in the sauce.
The okra decides everything. Salt it with vinegar first and give it time to sit. That small treatment tightens the cut edge, pulls out a little moisture, and keeps the pods separate in the pan. Skip it and you haven't saved time. You've made glue with a fish on top, and no Cretan auntie will thank you.
Use good tomatoes in season or honest canned ones outside it. Use a firm fish that won't collapse before the okra is ready. I don't invent it, I find it, I test it, I write it down, and this one asks for only three virtues: small okra, clean fish, and good olive oil.
Fish with okra is strongest in the cooking of Crete and the southern Aegean, where summer vegetable dishes often meet the day's fish in one baking pan. Okra entered Greek kitchens through Ottoman-era routes and settled especially well in regions with heat, oil, and tomato, becoming a household vegetable rather than a restaurant one. The Cretan version keeps the fish separate until the end, a practical method that protects both the okra's shape and the fish's tenderness.
Quantity
800g
patted dry
Quantity
700g
trimmed carefully
Quantity
10g
Quantity
45ml
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
3
thinly sliced
Quantity
500g
grated
Quantity
400g
Quantity
2 tbsp
chopped
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
plus more for the fish
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1
half juiced and half cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| firm white fish fillets or steakspatted dry | 800g |
| small fresh okra (bamies)trimmed carefully | 700g |
| fine sea salt, for the okra | 10g |
| red wine vinegar | 45ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 90ml |
| large onionthinly sliced | 1 |
| garlic clovesthinly sliced | 3 |
| ripe tomatoesgrated | 500g |
| good canned chopped tomatoes (optional) | 400g |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 2 tbsp |
| dried Greek oregano | 1 tsp |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| sugar (optional) | 1/2 tsp |
| fine sea saltplus more for the fish | 1 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| lemonhalf juiced and half cut into wedges | 1 |
Trim only the tough cap from each okra, keeping the little cone intact so the pods don't open. Toss the okra with 10g salt and the vinegar, spread it on a tray, and let it stand for 30 minutes while you prepare the sauce. This is the step that decides the dish: the salt and vinegar pull moisture from the cut edge and help the okra hold its shape, so it bakes tender instead of turning the pan gluey.
Heat 60ml of the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until soft and sweet but not browned. Stir in the garlic for one minute, then add the grated tomatoes, parsley, oregano, bay leaf, sugar if needed, 1 teaspoon salt, and black pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes, until the tomato loses its raw smell and the oil begins to shine at the edges.
Heat the oven to 190C. Rinse the okra briefly, drain well, and pat it dry with a clean towel. Spread it in a 30cm baking dish, pour the tomato sauce over it, and turn gently with a spoon. Drizzle with 15ml olive oil, cover loosely with baking paper or foil, and bake for 30 minutes, until the okra is almost tender and the sauce has thickened.
Season the fish lightly with salt, pepper, and the juice from half the lemon. Nestle the pieces over the okra, spoon a little sauce over the top, and drizzle with the remaining 15ml olive oil. Return the dish to the oven uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on thickness, until the fish flakes cleanly and the tomato oil looks glossy around the edges.
Let the pan rest for 10 minutes before serving. Fish and okra both taste better after the oil settles back into the sauce. Serve warm, with lemon wedges and bread for the tomato juices.
1 serving (about 455g)
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