
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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Layers of sweet summer corn and tender zucchini swim in a garlic-kissed cream, blanketed by sharp cheddar and golden breadcrumbs that shatter at the first bite. This is the dish that disappears at every potluck.
The gratin is a French farmhouse technique that Americans claimed as our own somewhere around the first church potluck. Take seasonal vegetables, nestle them in cream, crown them with cheese and breadcrumbs, and let the oven do its transformative work. The French would use Gruyère. We use sharp cheddar, and we're right to do so.
This dish celebrates the fleeting window when corn and zucchini overlap at their peak. Maybe three weeks in August when both hit perfection simultaneously. The corn should be so fresh it still smells like the field. The zucchini should be firm and no bigger than your forearm. Anything larger turns watery and bitter.
I've served this at potlucks from Portland to Portland, Maine to Oregon. It travels beautifully, reheats without complaint, and feeds a crowd without apology. The cream sauce comes together in minutes. The assembly takes longer to describe than to execute. What emerges from your oven is golden, bubbling, and honest. The kind of dish that makes people ask for the recipe before they've finished their first serving.
Don't rush the breadcrumb topping. It needs time to form that crackling crust that shatters when your spoon breaks through to the creamy layers beneath. That textural contrast, the crunch against the silky vegetables, is the whole point.
Quantity
4 (about 2 pounds)
sliced 1/4-inch thick
Quantity
4 ears
kernels cut from cob, about 3 cups
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, divided
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1
minced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
warmed
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
2 cups (8 ounces)
grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 cup
from day-old bread
Quantity
2 tablespoons
melted
Quantity
1/4 cup
finely grated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium zucchinisliced 1/4-inch thick | 4 (about 2 pounds) |
| fresh cornkernels cut from cob, about 3 cups | 4 ears |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, divided |
| unsalted butter | 3 tablespoons |
| large shallotminced | 1 |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| all-purpose flour | 2 tablespoons |
| whole milkwarmed | 1 1/2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1/2 cup |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sharp cheddar cheesegrated | 2 cups (8 ounces) |
| fresh thyme leaves | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh breadcrumbsfrom day-old bread | 1 cup |
| butter for toppingmelted | 2 tablespoons |
| Parmesan cheesefinely grated | 1/4 cup |
Arrange zucchini slices in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and let stand 20 minutes. The salt draws out excess moisture that would otherwise make your gratin watery. You'll see beads of liquid forming on the surface. That's exactly what you want leaving the zucchini, not pooling in your dish.
Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish or gratin dish generously. Warm the milk in a small saucepan or microwave. Cold milk added to a hot roux causes lumps. Room temperature is acceptable. Warm is better.
Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. When it foams, add the shallot. Cook until softened and translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, maybe 30 seconds. You'll smell it transform from raw and sharp to sweet and mellow. Sprinkle the flour over the aromatics and stir constantly for 1 minute. This cooks out the raw flour taste. The mixture will look like wet sand.
Pour in the warm milk gradually, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Add the cream. Continue whisking over medium heat until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 4 minutes. It should leave a clear trail when you run your finger through it. Remove from heat. Stir in the nutmeg, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, and 1 1/2 cups of the cheddar. The cheese melts into a glossy, golden sauce. Taste it. Adjust the salt if needed.
Pat the zucchini slices firmly with fresh paper towels. Press down. They should feel notably drier than when you started. Blot both sides of each slice. This takes a minute but pays dividends in texture.
Spread a thin layer of sauce across the bottom of your prepared dish. Arrange half the zucchini slices in overlapping rows, like shingles on a roof. Scatter half the corn kernels over the zucchini. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon thyme. Pour half the remaining sauce evenly over everything. Repeat: zucchini, corn, thyme, sauce. The layers don't need to be perfect. This is farmhouse cooking, not architecture.
Toss breadcrumbs with melted butter in a small bowl. Add the remaining 1/2 cup cheddar and the Parmesan. Mix until everything is coated and clumping slightly. Scatter evenly over the gratin. The mixture should cover the surface completely but not be packed down. Air pockets help it crisp.
Bake uncovered for 40 to 45 minutes. The edges should bubble vigorously and the topping should turn deep golden brown, almost mahogany in spots. The smell will shift from raw cream to toasted cheese and bread. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil for the final 10 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes before serving. This allows the sauce to set slightly so slices hold together.
1 serving (about 460g)
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