A cooking platform built around craft, culture, and the stories behind what we eat.
Created by Chef Remy
A whole suckling pig rubbed with Cajun spices and slow-roasted over hours until the meat surrenders to the slightest touch and the skin shatters like glass, the kind of feast that turns any backyard into a Louisiana celebration.
Nothing says Louisiana celebration like a cochon de lait. The name means 'pig of milk' in French, a suckling pig so young and tender that twelve hours over low heat transforms it into something almost impossible: meat that pulls apart with your fingers while the skin crackles and shatters with every bite.
My grandmother Evangeline told me stories about cochon de laits at every major gathering in Lafayette Parish. Weddings, baptisms, family reunions, political rallies. The men would start the fire before dawn, and by the time the sun set, three generations would be gathered around tables groaning with rice, potato salad, and pile after pile of that sweet, smoky pork. At Lagniappe, we do one every Mardi Gras, and people line up around the block.
The technique is simple but demands patience. You inject the pig with seasoned butter to keep the meat moist during its long journey. You coat it with a proper Cajun rub, building flavor from the outside in. Then you let time and low heat do the work while you tend the fire and drink cold beer with your people. That's the bayou way.
Don't let the size intimidate you. If you can manage a smoker or a covered grill, you can roast a pig. The hardest part is finding the pig itself and carving out a full day to do this right. Everything else is just watching, waiting, and enjoying the anticipation.
Quantity
1 (20-25 pounds)
cleaned and dressed
Quantity
1 pound (4 sticks)
Quantity
1 head (about 12 cloves)
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Louisiana-style preferred
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
for coating
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole suckling pigcleaned and dressed | 1 (20-25 pounds) |
| unsalted butter | 1 pound (4 sticks) |
| garlicminced | 1 head (about 12 cloves) |
| kosher salt | 2 tablespoons |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1 tablespoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1 tablespoon |
| paprika | 1 tablespoon |
| onion powder | 2 teaspoons |
| garlic powder | 2 teaspoons |
| dried thyme | 1 teaspoon |
| dried oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| Cajun seasoning blend | 1/2 cup |
| yellow mustard | 1/4 cup |
| chicken stock | 2 cups |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1/4 cup |
| hot sauceLouisiana-style preferred | 1/4 cup |
| apple cider vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| vegetable oil | for coating |
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add the minced garlic and let it bloom in the warm butter for about five minutes. You want the garlic fragrant and soft, not browned. Stir in one tablespoon of the salt, the black pepper, half the cayenne, and half the paprika. Add the chicken stock, Worcestershire, hot sauce, and vinegar. Whisk everything together and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. The kitchen should smell like a Louisiana roadhouse. Let this cool until it's warm but not hot, about body temperature.
Combine the remaining salt, remaining cayenne, remaining paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, thyme, oregano, and Cajun seasoning in a bowl. Mix thoroughly with your fingers, breaking up any clumps. You should have about three quarters of a cup of rub. This is your flavor foundation, so taste it. Adjust the heat if you need to. Remember, a twenty pound pig needs bold seasoning.
Set the pig on a large work surface, belly down. Pat the entire surface dry with paper towels. Moisture is the enemy of crispy skin. Score the skin along the back in a crosshatch pattern, cutting through the skin but not into the meat. These cuts let the fat render and the rub penetrate. Rub the entire pig, inside and out, with yellow mustard. This sounds strange, but the mustard helps the rub adhere and adds a subtle tang that disappears into the background.
Fill a meat injector with the warm butter mixture. Working methodically, inject the shoulders, hams, loins, and belly. Space your injections about two inches apart, pushing the needle deep into the meat and slowly withdrawing while you press the plunger. The meat will swell slightly. You should use almost all of the injection, reserving about half a cup for basting later. The shoulders and hams take the most; they're the thickest cuts and need the help.
Apply the dry rub all over the pig, pressing it into the scored skin, into every fold and crevice. Season the cavity generously. Don't be shy. You're seasoning twenty-plus pounds of meat. The rub should coat every surface in a visible layer. Let the seasoned pig rest uncovered in the refrigerator overnight if time allows. This dries the skin further and lets the seasoning penetrate.
Set up your smoker or grill for indirect cooking at 250 degrees Fahrenheit. If using charcoal, bank the coals to one side or around the perimeter. Add soaked wood chunks (pecan or oak are traditional in Louisiana). You need to maintain this temperature for eight to ten hours, so have plenty of fuel ready. Fill a spray bottle with apple cider vinegar and water in equal parts for basting.
Remove the pig from the refrigerator one hour before cooking to take the chill off. Rub the entire skin lightly with vegetable oil. Place the pig on the grate belly-side down, legs tucked underneath. Position it over the drip pan, away from direct heat. Cover and let the smoke do its work. Resist the urge to peek for at least the first two hours.
Check your temperature every hour and add fuel as needed to maintain 250 degrees. After three hours, start spraying the pig with the vinegar mixture every hour. This keeps the surface moist and builds a beautiful mahogany bark. The internal temperature of the shoulders should reach 195-205 degrees for pulled pork perfection. A twenty-pound pig takes eight to ten hours. Patience is everything here.
When the shoulders hit 200 degrees internal, it's time to crisp the skin. Increase the heat to 375-400 degrees for the final thirty minutes to an hour. Watch carefully. The skin will blister and crackle. Some spots will get darker than others. That's character. If any areas look like they're burning, shield them with foil. You're looking for a deep reddish-brown, almost lacquered appearance.
Transfer the pig to a large cutting board or clean table covered with butcher paper. Tent loosely with foil and let it rest for thirty minutes. The meat will continue cooking and the juices will redistribute. Use this time to gather your people. A cochon de lait is not eaten alone.
Remove the crispy skin in large pieces and set aside. Pull the shoulder and ham meat with forks or your hands (use gloves, it's hot). Slice the loin if you prefer. Arrange the pulled meat on platters, scatter pieces of crackling skin on top. Serve family-style with rice, potato salad, and plenty of white bread for making sandwiches. When the last bite is as good as the first, you've done it right.
1 serving (about 240g)
Culinary guides, cultural storytelling, and the editorial depth that makes cooking meaningful.
Discover Culinary Explorer
Chef Remy
Boneless chicken breasts dredged in homemade Cajun spices and seared in a screaming-hot cast iron skillet until the crust turns dark and complex, the meat stays juicy inside, and your kitchen smells like a Friday night at Lagniappe.
Chef Remy
Sweet Gulf redfish wearing a bold crust of Cajun spices, seared in a screaming cast iron until gloriously charred outside and flaky tender within, finished with golden butter pooling on the plate.
Chef Remy
Fat Gulf shrimp buried in homemade Cajun spices and kissed by a screaming-hot cast iron skillet, each bite delivering smoky char, bright heat, and the sweet ocean flavor of the Gulf.
Chef Remy
Tender pork wrapped around savory boudin stuffing, seared golden in cast iron and roasted until the meat is juicy and the rice-studded filling spills out in beautiful spirals with every slice.