
Chef Dean
Antipasto Tortellini Salad
Plump cheese tortellini tumbled with the greatest hits of the Italian deli counter, all glossed in a garlicky herb vinaigrette that improves as it sits. This is the potluck dish that comes home empty.
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A verdant mountain of hand-chopped parsley and mint, studded with juicy tomatoes and the gentlest whisper of bulgur, dressed in bright lemon and fruity olive oil. This is the tabbouleh of Beirut grandmothers, not the grain-heavy imitation.
Americans have been making tabbouleh wrong for decades. Walk into most restaurants and you'll find a bulgur salad with some parsley scattered on top. That's not tabbouleh. Authentic Lebanese tabbouleh is a parsley salad, gloriously green, with bulgur playing the smallest supporting role. The ratio matters more than anything else I can teach you.
I first encountered proper tabbouleh at a Lebanese restaurant in Detroit, a city blessed with one of the finest Middle Eastern food scenes in America. The owner watched me eat the first bite and laughed at my expression. 'You've never had it right before,' she said. She was correct. The parsley was the dish, not a garnish. The lemon sang. The mint whispered. The bulgur provided texture without competing for attention.
This salad demands fresh ingredients and careful knife work. The parsley must be bone dry before chopping, the tomatoes ripe but firm, the lemon juice squeezed minutes before dressing. There are no shortcuts. But the result is one of the most refreshing, healthful, and genuinely delicious salads in any cuisine. Pack it for a potluck and watch it disappear first.
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 cup (about 2 lemons), plus more to taste
Quantity
4 cups packed (about 4 large bunches)
tough stems removed
Quantity
1/2 cup packed
Quantity
3 medium
seeded and finely diced
Quantity
4
white and light green parts, thinly sliced
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small head
leaves separated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fine bulgur (#1 grade) | 3 tablespoons |
| fresh lemon juice | 1/4 cup (about 2 lemons), plus more to taste |
| flat-leaf parsleytough stems removed | 4 cups packed (about 4 large bunches) |
| fresh mint leaves | 1/2 cup packed |
| ripe tomatoesseeded and finely diced | 3 medium |
| green onions (scallions)white and light green parts, thinly sliced | 4 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/3 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| romaine lettuce (optional)leaves separated | 1 small head |
Place the bulgur in a small bowl and pour three tablespoons of the lemon juice over it. Toss to combine and let stand while you prepare everything else, at least twenty minutes. The acid softens the grain without making it mushy. Do not cook the bulgur. Do not add water. The lemon juice does all the work.
Fill a large bowl with cold water. Submerge the parsley bunches and swish vigorously to dislodge any grit. Lift out, drain the bowl, and repeat until no sand remains at the bottom. Spin the parsley in a salad spinner until completely dry, then spread on clean kitchen towels and blot thoroughly. Wet parsley makes soggy tabbouleh.
Strip the parsley leaves from the stems, discarding any thick woody pieces. Gather the leaves into a tight pile and chop with a sharp knife using a rocking motion, going over the pile repeatedly until very finely minced. You want confetti, not chunks. Stack the mint leaves, roll them into a tight cylinder, and slice into thin ribbons, then cross-cut into fine pieces. Transfer both herbs to your largest mixing bowl.
Cut the tomatoes in half crosswise. Squeeze gently over the sink to release the seeds and excess liquid. Dice the flesh into pieces no larger than a quarter inch. The tomatoes should be small enough to cling to the herbs, not chunky enough to dominate. Add them to the bowl with the herbs.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining lemon juice with the salt and pepper. Whisk until the salt dissolves completely. This step matters: salt dissolved in acid distributes evenly and seasons every leaf. Now add the olive oil in a slow stream, whisking constantly until the dressing looks slightly creamy and unified. Taste it. The lemon should be bright and assertive, the oil fruity and rich.
Add the scallions and the soaked bulgur (including any unabsorbed lemon juice) to the herbs and tomatoes. Pour the dressing over everything and toss gently but thoroughly, using your hands if necessary to distribute the dressing into every crevice. The salad should glisten but not swim. Taste and adjust with more lemon juice, salt, or pepper as needed.
Let the tabbouleh rest at room temperature for fifteen to thirty minutes before serving. This resting period allows the flavors to marry and the bulgur to finish softening. Transfer to a serving platter and surround with romaine leaves for scooping. In Lebanon, you eat tabbouleh with lettuce as your utensil, bringing the salad to your mouth in crisp green cups.
1 serving (about 48g)
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