Classic Cinnamon French Toast

The French call it pain perdu, lost bread, because the dish began as a way to rescue stale loaves from the rubbish bin. Clever cooks discovered that yesterday's bread, too dry to eat on its own, became something magnificent when soaked in custard and fried in butter. The staleness was the secret. Fresh bread turns to mush. Day-old bread drinks in the custard while holding its shape.

This is the French toast I grew up with, the kind my grandmother made on Saturday mornings while my grandfather read the paper and the coffee pot burbled on the stove. She used whatever bread was going stale, white sandwich slices when times were tight, thick-cut challah when the bakery had day-old loaves on sale. The magic lived in the custard and the generous hand with the butter.

Don't rush this. French toast rewards patience. The bread needs time to absorb the custard mixture, and the pan needs to be properly heated before anything hits the surface. Cook it too fast and you'll have burnt exteriors with raw, eggy centers. Cook it right and you'll have crisp golden crusts giving way to creamy, custardy interiors that practically melt on the tongue.