Cima alla Genovese

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot (at least 10-quart capacity)
• •Kitchen twine
• •Large needle (curved upholstery needle ideal)
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Rimmed baking sheets for pressing
• •5-pound weight (cans, cast-iron skillet)
• •Very sharp slicing knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the veal breast

   Examine the veal breast your butcher has prepared. There should be a deep pocket cut between the meat and the bone, large enough to hold a generous stuffing. If the butcher has not done this, you must do it yourself with a sharp boning knife, working carefully to create a cavity without piercing the outer walls. Trim any excess fat. Season the inside of the pocket lightly with fine sea salt and white pepper.

   Speak clearly to your butcher. Ask for a veal breast with a pocket cut for stuffing. Show them with your hands how deep and wide. A good butcher understands this request. A confused butcher should be educated or abandoned.
2. 2

   Soak the bread

   Place the bread in a small bowl and pour the milk over it. Let it soak until completely saturated, about 10 minutes. Squeeze out the excess milk firmly with your hands. The bread should be moist but not dripping. Set aside.

3. 3

   Blanch the peas

   If using fresh peas, blanch them in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, then plunge into ice water and drain well. Frozen peas should be thawed and patted dry. The peas must be dry or they will make the filling wet.

4. 4

   Make the filling

   In a large bowl, combine the ground veal, ground pork, and diced sweetbreads if using. Add the squeezed bread, the four raw eggs, the Parmigiano-Reggiano, marjoram, and nutmeg. Season with one teaspoon of fine sea salt and a generous grinding of white pepper. Mix thoroughly with your hands until the filling is completely uniform. Then fold in the peas and pine nuts, distributing them evenly. The filling should be cohesive but not dense.

   White pepper is traditional here. Black pepper would leave visible specks that disturb the pale, elegant appearance of the sliced cima. Small details matter in a dish meant for celebration.
5. 5

   Stuff the veal breast

   Lay the veal breast flat, pocket opening facing you. Spoon half the filling into the pocket, spreading it evenly. Place the two hard-boiled eggs end to end along the center of the filling. Cover with the remaining filling, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. The pocket should be full but not stretched. Leave about an inch at the opening free for sewing.

6. 6

   Sew the cima closed

   Thread a large needle with kitchen twine. Sew the opening closed using a simple overcast stitch, pulling the thread snug but not tight enough to tear the meat. Space your stitches about half an inch apart. Tie off securely. Then use more twine to tie the cima in three or four places along its length, shaping it into a compact cylinder. This helps it hold its shape during cooking.

   Your grandmother did this without instructions. Sewing meat is not difficult. It is simply unusual in modern kitchens. A curved upholstery needle makes the work easier, but any large needle works.
7. 7

   Prepare the poaching liquid

   Fill a pot large enough to hold the cima comfortably with cold water. Add the onion, carrots, celery, bay leaf, peppercorns, and a generous amount of salt. The water should taste pleasantly seasoned. Bring to a simmer.

8. 8

   Poach the cima

   Lower the cima gently into the simmering broth. The liquid should cover it by at least two inches. Add more water if needed. When the liquid returns to a simmer, reduce the heat to maintain the gentlest possible bubble. A rolling boil will toughen the meat and burst the casing. Poach for approximately 2 and a half to 3 hours, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center reads 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

   Prick the cima in several places with a needle after the first hour. This releases any air that has collected inside and prevents the casing from splitting.
9. 9

   Press the cima

   Carefully lift the cima from the broth and place it on a rimmed baking sheet. While still warm, place another baking sheet on top and weight it with heavy cans or a cast-iron skillet. The weight should be significant but not crushing, about five pounds. Refrigerate overnight. The pressing compacts the filling and makes clean slicing possible.

10. 10

    Slice and serve

    Remove the twine carefully. Using a very sharp knife, slice the cima into rounds about one-third inch thick. Each slice should reveal a mosaic: the pale meat studded with green peas, golden pine nuts, and the yellow and white of the eggs running through the center. Arrange the slices on a platter, overlapping slightly. Serve cold or at cool room temperature. No sauce is needed or wanted.

Chef Tips

• •The relationship with your butcher matters here more than anywhere. Call ahead. Explain what you need. A veal breast with a pocket is not a standard request, but any competent butcher can prepare one.
• •Marjoram is the herb of Liguria. Do not substitute oregano, which is harsh by comparison. Fresh marjoram has a sweet, almost floral quality that defines Genoese cooking. Dried marjoram is acceptable if fresh is unavailable, but use half the amount.
• •The hard-boiled eggs create the characteristic cross-section that makes cima beautiful when sliced. Position them carefully in the center so every slice reveals the yellow yolk surrounded by white, surrounded by filling.
• •Save the poaching broth. Strain it well and you have the foundation for a fine soup or risotto. Nothing should be wasted.
• •Cima must be cold when sliced. Attempting to slice it warm results in crumbling. Patience is required at every stage of this dish.

Advance Preparation

• •Cima must be made at least one day ahead. The overnight pressing is not optional.
• •Once pressed and sliced, cima keeps well in the refrigerator for up to four days, wrapped tightly.
• •The filling can be prepared the day before stuffing. Refrigerate it and bring to cool room temperature before using.
• •Cima does not freeze well. The texture of the filling suffers. Make it fresh for each occasion.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)