
Chef Graziella
Abbacchio a Scottadito
Roman lamb chops grilled over scorching heat, seasoned with nothing but salt, rosemary, and fire. You eat them with your hands, straight from the grill, burning your fingers because you cannot wait.
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The Sunday lamb of Puglia, roasted with potatoes until they absorb every precious drop of rendered fat. In this dish, the potatoes become the reason you came to the table.
In Puglia, lamb is not merely roasted. It is transformed alongside the potatoes that share its pan. The potatoes are not a side dish. They are not an accompaniment. They are the silent beneficiaries of everything the lamb releases as it cooks: fat, juices, the essence of rosemary, the whisper of garlic. By the time the dish emerges from the oven, the potatoes have become something that no amount of butter or cream could replicate.
This is peasant cooking elevated by restraint. There is olive oil, good and green. There is rosemary because it grows wild on the Pugliese hills. There is garlic, used properly, which means lightly crushed cloves that flavor without overwhelming. And there is time.
The lamb must be bone-in. Boneless lamb is convenient for the cook and disastrous for the dish. The bones release gelatin and flavor that no boneless cut can provide. When you pull the meat from the bone and it separates without resistance, when the potatoes are golden and creamy and saturated with rendered fat, you will understand why this dish has been made the same way for generations.
Agnello al forno traces to the shepherding traditions of Puglia and the Mezzogiorno, where lamb was the meat of celebrations, particularly Easter. Farm families roasted the whole animal in communal wood-fired ovens, the potatoes scattered beneath to catch the drippings. The dish remains the centerpiece of Easter Sunday tables throughout Southern Italy.
Quantity
3 pounds
cut into large pieces
Quantity
2 1/2 pounds
peeled and cut into 2-inch wedges
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
4
peeled and lightly crushed
Quantity
4 sprigs
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in lamb shouldercut into large pieces | 3 pounds |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into 2-inch wedges | 2 1/2 pounds |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/2 cup |
| garlic clovespeeled and lightly crushed | 4 |
| fresh rosemary | 4 sprigs |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Remove the lamb from the refrigerator one hour before cooking. Cold meat does not brown properly. Pat each piece thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and pepper on all sides. The salt should be visible.
Place the potato wedges in a large bowl. Toss with half the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. The potatoes should glisten but not swim. Set aside while you preheat the oven to 425°F.
Choose a roasting pan or large baking dish that holds everything in a single layer with the pieces touching but not crowded. Scatter the potatoes across the bottom. Nestle the lamb pieces on top of and among the potatoes. Tuck the crushed garlic cloves and rosemary sprigs throughout. Drizzle the remaining olive oil over the lamb.
Place the pan in the hot oven. Roast for 30 minutes without opening the door. The lamb should begin to brown and the fat should start rendering. The kitchen will smell of rosemary and lamb.
Remove the pan from the oven. Pour the wine over the lamb and potatoes. Use a spoon to baste the potatoes with the accumulated fat and juices. The potatoes on the bottom are beginning their transformation. Return the pan to the oven, reduce the heat to 375°F, and roast for 45 minutes more.
Remove the pan again. Turn the lamb pieces to expose new surfaces to the heat. Stir the potatoes gently, moving those on the edges toward the center and vice versa. Every potato should spend time in the rendered fat. Return to the oven and roast until the lamb is deeply browned and tender, and the potatoes are golden and creamy within, 30 to 45 minutes more. The meat should pull easily from the bone.
Remove from the oven and let the dish rest for 10 minutes. This is not optional. The juices redistribute and the potatoes continue to absorb the fat. Serve directly from the roasting pan, making certain everyone receives both lamb and an abundance of potatoes. The potatoes are the point.
1 serving (about 270g)
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