
Chef Thomas
A Proper Chicken Broth
Sunday's roast chicken, simmered slowly on Monday with carrots, celery, leeks, and thyme into a bowl of clear, golden broth that smells like the kitchen is paying attention.
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A cold summer soup made from garden lettuce that was bolting faster than you could eat it, thickened with potato, bright and pale green, the kind of thing that justifies the heat.
The lettuces have bolted. Three days of real heat and they've gone from useful to theatrical, shooting up like they've somewhere to be. You could be annoyed about it, or you could make soup.
This is what I do every July when the garden produces more lettuce than two people can reasonably eat in salads. You cook it down with a little onion, a potato for body, some decent stock, and blend the whole thing smooth. Then you chill it. What comes out of the fridge a few hours later is a surprise every time: pale green, silky, tasting of something clean and grassy that you can't quite name. It's better than it has any right to be.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago. "Lettuce soup. Cold. Better than expected. Make again." I have, most summers since. The best version uses whatever is in the garden, round lettuce or butterhead, the outer leaves included, the ones that are too big and slightly bitter for a salad. They cook down to almost nothing, which is the point. A cold soup needs to taste concentrated, like the idea of the ingredient rather than the thing itself.
Serve it on one of those evenings when the kitchen is too warm to cook anything properly and you want something that feels like you've made an effort without actually breaking a sweat. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. Use what you have. Trust your instincts. We're only making dinner.
Quantity
2 large heads
roughly torn
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and diced
Quantity
1 small
finely sliced
Quantity
30g
Quantity
600ml
Quantity
100ml, plus extra to serve
Quantity
a squeeze
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
a few
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| garden lettuceroughly torn | 2 large heads |
| potatopeeled and diced | 1 medium |
| onionfinely sliced | 1 small |
| unsalted butter | 30g |
| vegetable or light chicken stock | 600ml |
| double cream | 100ml, plus extra to serve |
| lemon juice | a squeeze |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| white pepper | to taste |
| chive flowers or snipped chives (optional) | a few |
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan over a low heat. Add the sliced onion and a pinch of salt, stir it through, and let it soften for five minutes or so until it's translucent and sweet smelling. No colour. Add the diced potato and stir it around in the butter for a minute, then pour in the stock. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the potato is completely tender, about fifteen minutes.
Push all the torn lettuce into the pan. It looks like far too much. It isn't. Stir it through the hot stock and watch it collapse in about thirty seconds, going from a great heap to almost nothing. Let it cook for two minutes, no more. You want it wilted and bright, not grey and tired. The colour matters here because it carries through to the finished soup.
Take the pan off the heat. Blend until completely smooth and silky. A stick blender works, but a countertop blender gives a finer texture, and texture is everything in a cold soup. You notice lumps in a cold bowl that you'd forgive in a hot one. Pass it through a sieve if you want it properly refined. Stir in the cream and the squeeze of lemon. Season with salt and white pepper. Taste it warm, knowing it will need to be slightly over-seasoned now because chilling mutes everything.
Pour the soup into a bowl, press cling film directly onto the surface to prevent a skin forming, and refrigerate for at least three hours, or overnight. The colour will hold if you've kept the cooking time short. When you're ready to serve, stir it well, taste once more for seasoning, and ladle it into cold bowls. A thin stream of cream across the surface. Chives or their flowers if the garden has them. Nothing else.
1 serving (about 330g)
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