
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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Tender chicken cutlets sheathed in a shattering golden crust, blanketed with peppery cream gravy built from honest pan drippings. This is the dish Texas built its reputation on.
Chicken fried chicken is Texas claiming steak technique for the hen house. The dish arrived with German and Austrian immigrants who brought their schnitzel traditions to the Hill Country in the 1840s. Texans, being Texans, made it bigger, battered it thicker, and drowned it in cream gravy. Smart people, those Texans.
The technique is identical to its beef cousin: pound the meat thin, dredge it properly, and fry it in enough fat to matter. The pounding serves two purposes. It tenderizes the breast, which can turn stringy and dry when mistreated, and it creates uniform thickness for even cooking. A half-inch cutlet cooks through in the same time the crust turns golden. No guesswork required.
The gravy is non-negotiable. You make it in the same skillet, scraping up every flavorful bit left behind. Flour, milk, and an unapologetic amount of black pepper. White gravy, Texans call it, though cream gravy is the more honest name. It should coat a spoon but still pour. Too thick and it sits on the chicken like mortar. Too thin and it runs off before you can taste it.
I've watched home cooks overcomplicate this dish with buttermilk soaks and triple-dredging. Unnecessary. A single pass through seasoned flour, then egg, then flour again produces a crust that shatters and clings. The secret is in the resting: let your breaded cutlets sit for ten minutes before they hit the oil. The coating sets. The crust stays put.
Quantity
4 (6-8 oz each)
Quantity
2 cups, divided
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus 1 teaspoon for gravy
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless, skinless chicken breasts | 4 (6-8 oz each) |
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups, divided |
| kosher salt | 1 tablespoon, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | 2 teaspoons, plus 1 teaspoon for gravy |
| garlic powder | 1 teaspoon |
| onion powder | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| smoked paprika | 1/2 teaspoon |
| large eggs | 3 |
| whole milk | 1/4 cup |
| vegetable oil or lard | 1 cup |
| whole milk for gravy | 2 1/2 cups |
Place one chicken breast between two sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy skillet, pound from the center outward until the cutlet is an even half-inch thick throughout. The edges will want to get too thin. Focus your force on the thick center. Repeat with remaining breasts.
Pat the pounded cutlets dry with paper towels. Season both sides generously with kosher salt. The salt draws moisture to the surface, which helps the flour adhere. Let them sit while you prepare the dredging station.
In a wide, shallow dish, whisk together 1 1/2 cups flour, the tablespoon of salt, 2 teaspoons black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, and smoked paprika. In a second dish, beat the eggs with 1/4 cup milk until smooth. Reserve the remaining 1/2 cup flour for the gravy.
Working with one cutlet at a time: press it firmly into the seasoned flour, coating both sides and the edges. Shake off excess. Dip into the egg mixture, letting the excess drip off for a count of three. Return to the flour and press again, turning to coat completely. The coating should look shaggy and uneven. That's correct. Place breaded cutlets on a wire rack and let them rest for 10 minutes. This step is not optional.
Pour oil into a 12-inch cast iron skillet to a depth of about 1/4 inch. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F on an instant-read thermometer. If you don't have a thermometer, drop a pinch of flour into the oil. It should sizzle immediately and turn golden within 10 seconds. Too fast and your oil is too hot. Too slow and you'll get greasy chicken.
Carefully lay two cutlets into the hot oil, away from you to prevent splashing. The oil should bubble vigorously around the edges. Fry without moving for 4 to 5 minutes until the bottom is deep golden brown and the edges look set. Flip once using a spatula and fry another 3 to 4 minutes until the second side matches. The internal temperature should reach 165°F. Transfer to a clean wire rack set over a sheet pan. Season immediately with a pinch of salt. Repeat with remaining cutlets, letting the oil return to 350°F between batches.
Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the frying oil, keeping the browned bits in the skillet. Return to medium heat. Whisk in the reserved 1/2 cup flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. The raw flour smell will fade and the roux will turn the color of wet sand. Pour in 2 1/2 cups milk in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. The gravy will seize up initially. Keep whisking. It will smooth out.
Continue cooking over medium heat, whisking frequently, until the gravy thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon black pepper. Taste and add salt as needed. The gravy should be aggressively seasoned. It's carrying a lot of bland starch, and the chicken is rich. If the gravy gets too thick, whisk in more milk a tablespoon at a time.
Place each cutlet on a warm plate. Ladle cream gravy generously over one half of each cutlet, leaving the other half exposed to preserve the crunch. Serve immediately with mashed potatoes, green beans, or Texas toast. This dish does not wait well. The crust softens. Eat while it still shatters.
1 serving (about 400g)
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