
Chef Thomas
All-Butter Shortbread Fingers
The plainest biscuit in the tin and the hardest one to stop eating, three ingredients and a slow oven turning good butter into something quietly perfect with a cup of tea.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Sharp cheddar scones with a hum of mustard and cayenne, golden-topped and tall, made for a bowl of soup on a grey afternoon or a picnic basket on a hopeful one.
There's a particular kind of afternoon, the sky low and the wind picking up, when the right thing to do is put the oven on and make something warm. Cheese scones are that thing. Twenty minutes from cold flour to a tray of golden, cheddar-crusted rounds that fill the kitchen with the smell of toasted cheese and butter. Not much else gives you that kind of return for so little effort.
The trick is good cheddar and a light hand. A proper mature cheese, the sort that bites back. A pinch of mustard powder to wake everything up, a whisper of cayenne behind it. Cold butter rubbed into the flour with your fingertips, the dough barely worked, patted not rolled. Scones don't reward fussing. They reward speed and confidence and an oven that's been properly preheated. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. This one is short and to the point.
I make a batch when the soup needs company, or when someone is coming round and I want the house to smell like I've been expecting them. They're at their best warm from the oven, torn open and eaten standing up at the counter. But they pack beautifully too, wrapped in a clean napkin and tucked into a basket with an apple and a flask of something hot. Right food, right afternoon.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: cheese scones, mustard, cayenne, fast oven. Nothing has changed since. Nothing needs to.
Quantity
350g
plus extra for dusting
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
85g
cubed
Quantity
150g
coarsely grated, plus a small handful for the tops
Quantity
180ml
plus a little extra for brushing
Quantity
1
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| self-raising flourplus extra for dusting | 350g |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| English mustard powder | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | pinch |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted buttercubed | 85g |
| mature cheddarcoarsely grated, plus a small handful for the tops | 150g |
| whole milkplus a little extra for brushing | 180ml |
| large egg | 1 |
Set the oven to 220C/200C fan and slide a baking tray in to heat with it. A hot tray gives the scones a lift from underneath the moment they go in. Line a second tray with baking parchment, ready to take them.
Tip the flour, baking powder, mustard powder, cayenne and salt into a wide bowl and give it a stir. Add the cubed butter and rub it in with your fingertips, lifting the mixture as you go so the air gets through. Stop when it looks like coarse breadcrumbs with a few larger flecks of butter still visible. Those flecks are good. They're what makes a scone flake.
Stir in the grated cheddar with a butter knife or your hand, just until it's distributed through the flour. Use a proper mature cheddar, the kind that makes you flinch a little on its own. Mild cheese disappears in the bake. You want it to taste of something.
Beat the egg into the milk in a jug. Hold back a tablespoon for brushing the tops later. Pour the rest into the flour mixture and bring it together with a butter knife, cutting through the dough rather than stirring. Stop the moment it comes together into a shaggy, slightly sticky mass. Overworking is the enemy here. A few dry patches are fine.
Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface and pat it gently into a round about 3cm thick. Don't roll it. A rolling pin compacts the dough and the scones won't rise the same. Cut out rounds with a 6cm cutter, pressing straight down without twisting. Twisting seals the edges and pulls the scones lopsided in the oven. Gather the scraps, pat them out again, cut a few more.
Lift the scones onto the lined tray, spaced a few centimetres apart. Brush the tops with the reserved milk and egg. Scatter a small handful of grated cheddar over each one. Slide the tray onto the hot baking tray in the oven and bake for twelve to fifteen minutes. They're ready when they've risen tall, the tops are deep golden, and the cheese has gone crisp and lacy at the edges. The kitchen will smell like the kind of afternoon you want to stay in.
Move the scones to a wire rack and let them cool for five minutes. Not longer. A cheese scone is at its best while the cheese on top is still slightly soft and the inside steams a bit when you split it. Tear them open with your hands. Butter, if you like, though they hardly need it.
1 serving (about 95g)
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