
Chef Margarida
Açorda de Camarão
The peasant bread soup of Alentejo dressed for company, sweet pink prawns swimming in a broth of garlic, coentros, and golden azeite. Humble origins, elegant result. This is who we are.
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The mountain braise of Beira, where old goats meet robust wine and black clay pots, cooked for hours until the meat surrenders. Convent cooking, peasant wisdom, patience rewarded.
Some dishes exist because of abundance. Chanfana exists because of scarcity and genius.
In the mountains of Beira, families kept goats for milk and cheese. When a goat grew too old to produce, it went into the pot. But old goat is tough, stringy, the kind of meat that fights back. The solution? Drown it in wine. Seal it in black clay. Let time and heat do what knives cannot.
I first tasted proper chanfana in Miranda do Corvo, at a restaurant that still cooks in wood-fired ovens, the caçoilas sealed with flour paste so nothing escapes. The meat fell from the bone. The wine had reduced into something almost syrupy, dark and rich. I understood immediately why this dish has survived centuries.
At Mesa da Avó, we serve chanfana in autumn and winter. It's not a summer dish. It demands cold weather, a table full of people, bread to soak up the sauce, and wine from the same region that flavors the pot. This is communal cooking. This is what happens when you give simple ingredients enough time to become extraordinary.
Chanfana originated in the monasteries around Coimbra, particularly the Convento de Santa Clara, where nuns created the dish to tenderize donated old goats. The black clay pots (caçoilas) from Vila Nova de Poiares became inseparable from the recipe, their porous clay absorbing wine and fat over generations of use. The dish remains central to festas and family gatherings throughout Beira Litoral.
Quantity
1.5 kg
cut into large pieces on the bone
Quantity
1 bottle (750ml)
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 heads
cloves separated and peeled
Quantity
4
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
2 sprigs
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for greasing the pot
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| goat or lamb shouldercut into large pieces on the bone | 1.5 kg |
| robust red wine (Dão or Bairrada) | 1 bottle (750ml) |
| extra virgin olive oil (azeite) | 1/4 cup |
| garliccloves separated and peeled | 2 heads |
| bay leaves | 4 |
| sweet paprika (colorau doce) | 1 tablespoon |
| hot paprika or piri-piri flakes | 1 teaspoon |
| coarse sea salt | 1 tablespoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1 teaspoon |
| fresh rosemary | 2 sprigs |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| lard or olive oilfor greasing the pot | 2 tablespoons |
In a large bowl, combine the meat with the wine, olive oil, garlic cloves, bay leaves, both paprikas, salt, pepper, rosemary, and cinnamon stick. Turn the meat to coat every piece. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. The wine begins the tenderizing before the pot ever sees heat.
Preheat your oven to 160°C (320°F). Grease the inside of a clay pot or heavy Dutch oven with lard or olive oil. If using a new clay pot, soak it in water for 30 minutes first. Remove the meat from the marinade, shaking off excess liquid. Reserve all the marinade.
Layer the meat pieces in the pot, tucking the garlic cloves from the marinade between the pieces. Pour the reserved wine marinade over everything. The liquid should come at least three-quarters up the meat. Add more wine if needed. Tuck the bay leaves, rosemary, and cinnamon around the meat.
Cover the pot tightly. Place in the oven and cook for 3 to 3.5 hours. Do not open the pot for the first 2.5 hours. You're building pressure and steam that tenderizes the meat. After 2.5 hours, check: the meat should be falling from the bone, the sauce reduced and dark. If the meat is still firm, cover and continue for another 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let the pot rest, still covered, for 15 minutes. The juices will settle, the meat will relax. Serve directly from the clay pot at the table, the way it's done in Beira. Spoon the wine sauce generously over each portion. Have bread ready. You'll need it.
1 serving (about 220g)
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