
Chef Zohra
Boulfaf (بولفاف)
Eid begins at the brazier with sheep liver kissed by coals, wrapped in caul fat, and shared fast with khobz while the house is still busy around the sacrifice.
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The pastilla made small for passing hand to hand: crisp warqa around saffron chicken, softly set egg, toasted almonds, and the old Fassi sweet-savory dusting of sugar and cinnamon.
Everything here turns on the fold. The filling must be rich, but nearly dry, tucked tight inside the warqa so the pastry fries crisp instead of drinking its own sauce. That is the rule that saves the briouate. A wet filling is generous in the pot and a betrayal in the pastry.
Briouates au poulet et aux amandes are the pastilla made small enough to pass from one hand to another. Chicken cooks down with onion, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, and herbs, then the eggs are stirred into that reduced sauce until they hold it together. Toasted almonds bring sweetness and bite. At the end, the sugar and cinnamon on top remind you that the old Fassi table never built a wall between savory and sweet.
Use warqa if you can find it. If not, good filo will do, brushed carefully and kept covered so it doesn't dry before your hands reach it. Fold with patience, point over point, like closing a letter you want someone to receive whole.
Serve them hot or warm on a shared platter, with mint tea close by and one chair more than you counted. This is la cuisine du lien, the cooking of connection: small parcels, a full table, and the door left open.
Briouates belong to the urban pastry language of Morocco, especially Fez, Rabat, and Tetouan, where warqa, almonds, cinnamon, and sugar mark the Andalusi and citadin festive register after the movements from al-Andalus in the 15th and 16th centuries. The chicken, egg, and almond filling is closely related to pastilla, though briouates also became part of Ramadan tables and wedding trays because small pastries travel easily through a room. The exact line between pastilla, briouate, and other wrapped pastries is argued from one city to another, which is right for des cuisines marocaines, not one Moroccan cuisine.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
2 large
grated
Quantity
3 tbsp
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 small bunch
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small bunch
finely chopped
Quantity
1 pinch
bloomed in 2 tbsp warm water
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp, plus more
for the filling and dusting
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp, or to taste
Quantity
4 large
beaten
Quantity
150g
toasted and coarsely ground
Quantity
2 tbsp, plus more
for the almond filling and dusting
Quantity
1 tbsp
Quantity
18 to 24 sheets
or filo pastry as a substitute
Quantity
80g
for brushing
Quantity
1
beaten, for sealing
Quantity
as needed
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless chicken thighs | 500g |
| onionsgrated | 2 large |
| olive oil | 3 tbsp |
| butter or smen | 30g |
| fresh corianderfinely chopped | 1 small bunch |
| fresh parsleyfinely chopped | 1 small bunch |
| saffron threadsbloomed in 2 tbsp warm water | 1 pinch |
| ground ginger | 1 tsp |
| ground cinnamonfor the filling and dusting | 1 tsp, plus more |
| turmeric | 1/2 tsp |
| black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| sea salt | 1 tsp, or to taste |
| eggsbeaten | 4 large |
| blanched almondstoasted and coarsely ground | 150g |
| icing sugarfor the almond filling and dusting | 2 tbsp, plus more |
| orange blossom water | 1 tbsp |
| warqaor filo pastry as a substitute | 18 to 24 sheets |
| melted butterfor brushing | 80g |
| egg yolkbeaten, for sealing | 1 |
| neutral oilfor frying | as needed |
Warm the olive oil and butter or smen in a heavy pan. Add the grated onions, chicken, coriander, parsley, bloomed saffron, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper, and salt. Cover and cook gently for 35 to 40 minutes, turning the chicken once or twice, until the meat pulls apart easily and the onions have melted into a golden sauce.
Lift the chicken out to a plate and shred it finely when it is cool enough to touch. Keep the onion sauce over medium heat and reduce it until a spoon dragged through the pan leaves a path for a moment. This matters: a dry filling keeps the warqa crisp, while a wet one softens it from the inside.
Lower the heat and pour the beaten eggs into the reduced onion sauce. Stir slowly until the eggs set into soft curds and no loose liquid remains. Fold in the shredded chicken, taste for salt, then let the filling cool completely before wrapping.
Toast the blanched almonds until they smell nutty and turn pale gold, then cool them. Grind them coarse, not to paste, and mix with 2 tablespoons icing sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon if you like the sweetness clear, and the orange blossom water. The almonds should clump lightly when pressed, but still keep their little bite.
Cut the warqa or filo into long strips about 7 to 8 cm wide. Keep the stack covered with a barely damp towel while you work, because dry pastry cracks before it folds. Brush one strip lightly with melted butter.
Place a small spoonful of chicken filling and a pinch of almond mixture near one end of a strip. Fold the corner over the filling to make a triangle, then continue folding point over point until you reach the end. Seal the last edge with beaten egg yolk. The parcel should feel full but not swollen, with the filling held tight inside.
Heat neutral oil in a deep pan to 175C. Fry the briouates in small batches, seam side down first, until deep gold and crisp on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per batch. Drain on a rack or paper, not in a crowded bowl, so the crisp pastry stays crisp.
Dust the warm briouates lightly with icing sugar and fine cinnamon. Serve them on a shared platter, warm enough that the pastry crackles under the teeth and the chicken filling stays soft inside.
1 serving (about 65g)
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