
Chef Isabel
Almussafes Valenciano
Almussafes is Valencian bar-counter food: a crusty roll filled with sobrasada, cheese, and onion, then pressed on the plancha until the bread crisps and the filling runs together.
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Gran Canaria's bocadillo de pata asada is warm roast pork, soft white cheese, and alioli in crusty bread. Roast it low and covered first; the tenderness comes from patience, not a hard sear.
Bocadillo de pata asada is Canarian, and Gran Canaria holds it close: roast pork leg sliced warm into crusty bread with queso tierno, soft young white cheese, and alioli. What makes it this sandwich and not just pork in bread is the pata, the leg roasted with garlic, oregano, pimentón, wine, and its own juices until it can be carved thin and still stay tender.
The slow roast decides it. You don't chase a hard sear first, because pork leg is lean and it punishes impatience. Cover it low at the start so the meat cooks gently and the marinade becomes a pan juice, then uncover it only at the end to darken the outside. The bread wants that juice. Without it, you have a dry sandwich with ideas.
If you can't find pork leg where you are, ask for fresh ham. If that fails, use paleta or boneless pork shoulder; it will be fattier and the slices will be softer, less tidy, but still good in bread. For queso tierno canario, use a mild young white cheese, not an aged Manchego shouting over the pork. No hace falta haber pisado España. You need the right cut, a slow oven, and enough bread to catch what runs.
In my Margin for this one I wrote, 'slice warm, not hot.' Hot meat spills its juice onto the board. Warm meat keeps enough of it for the bocadillo, and the rest goes back over the slices where it belongs.
The bocadillo de pata asada belongs to the Canary Islands, especially Gran Canaria, where bars, cafés, and market counters keep roast pork leg ready to slice through the morning. Pata asada grew from the practical habit of roasting a whole pork leg for a table and using the warm or cold slices afterward, with bread making the leftovers into a proper meal. The garlic, oregano, pimentón, wine, queso tierno, and alioli place it in the Canary bar larder, distinct from the cured jamón bocadillos more common on the peninsula.
Quantity
1.6kg
skin removed, thin fat cap left
Quantity
22g
Quantity
6 cloves, about 24g
peeled
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
30ml
Quantity
15ml
Quantity
2
Quantity
100ml, plus more if needed
Quantity
6, about 90g each
Quantity
300g
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
room temperature
Quantity
1 small, about 5g
peeled
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
200ml
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork leg, fresh ham or piernaskin removed, thin fat cap left | 1.6kg |
| fine sea salt | 22g |
| garlic clovespeeled | 6 cloves, about 24g |
| sweet pimentón | 2 teaspoons |
| dried oregano | 2 teaspoons |
| dried thyme | 1 teaspoon |
| ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dry white wine | 80ml |
| extra virgin olive oil | 30ml |
| white wine vinegar | 15ml |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| water | 100ml, plus more if needed |
| crusty bocadillo rolls or short barras | 6, about 90g each |
| queso tierno canario or mild young white cheesethinly sliced | 300g |
| pasteurized large eggroom temperature | 1 |
| garlic clove for the aliolipeeled | 1 small, about 5g |
| lemon juice or white wine vinegar | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt for the alioli | 1/2 teaspoon |
| mild olive oil (optional) | 200ml |
Dry the pork well and score the fat in shallow lines. Pound the 6 garlic cloves with the 22g salt to a paste, then mix in the pimentón, oregano, thyme, pepper, wine, olive oil, and vinegar. Rub it all over the pork, getting it into the cuts, then cover and refrigerate 8 to 24 hours. Pésalo, no lo adivines: the salt is what seasons a whole piece of meat properly.
Take the pork from the refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. Heat the oven to 160C / 325F. Put the pork fat side up in a roasting tin just large enough to hold it, scrape in all the marinade, add the bay leaves and 100ml water, and cover the tin tightly with parchment and foil.
Roast covered for 2 hours, basting once with the juices in the tin. This is the step that decides the bocadillo: the leg must cook gently first, so the garlic, oregano, wine, and pork juices become one thing. A hard sear at the start gives you a dry outside and no mercy inside. If the tin dries, add a splash more water.
Uncover the pork, baste it well, raise the oven to 190C / 375F, and roast 35 to 45 minutes more, until the outside is dark gold and the thickest part reaches 72C. If you have used pork shoulder or paleta instead of leg, cook it covered until it reaches about 88C, then uncover to brown; it will slice less neatly, but it will be juicy.
Move the pork to a board and rest it 30 minutes. Pour the roasting juices into a small pan or jug, scraping up the sticky bits with 2 or 3 tablespoons of hot water if needed. Skim off only the excess fat. Do not throw the juices away; they are what the bread is waiting for.
Put the pasteurized egg, small garlic clove, lemon juice or vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a tall blender jar. Pour in the oil, set an immersion blender flat on the bottom, and blend without moving it until the base thickens. Then lift slowly until the alioli is glossy and spoonable. Taste for salt and garlic.
Slice the pork warm, across the grain, as thinly as your knife allows, about 3 to 4mm if you can manage it. Lay the slices in a shallow dish and spoon over a little of the warm roasting juice. This keeps the meat glossy instead of tired.
Split the rolls and warm them for 2 or 3 minutes, just enough to wake the crust. Spread alioli on both sides, lay in the queso tierno, pile in the warm sliced pork, and spoon over a little more pan juice. Close, press lightly, and serve while the cheese has softened against the meat. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 370g)
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