
Chef Isabel
Bikini Barceloní
The Barcelona bikini is Catalan bar food at its plainest: white bread, jamón dulce, melting cheese, butter, and gentle heat until the crust crisps and the middle runs.
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Almussafes is Valencian bar-counter food: a crusty roll filled with sobrasada, cheese, and onion, then pressed on the plancha until the bread crisps and the filling runs together.
Almussafes is Valencian, from the esmorzaret table: a crusty bocadillo roll, sobrasada, melting cheese, and onion cooked until sweet. It is not a delicate sandwich. It should come hot from the plancha, with the bread crisp at the edges and the pimentón-red sobrasada soft enough to stain the crumb.
The method that decides it is the onion. Cook it first, low and steady, until it loses its bite and goes golden and sweet. Raw onion inside this roll is too sharp, and burnt onion turns the sobrasada bitter. Give it ten honest minutes, then the rest is easy.
If you are far from Valencia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a good soft sobrasada from Mallorca if you can find it, or a spreadable cured chorizo only at a pinch, knowing it will taste firmer and smokier. For the cheese, choose one that melts without shouting over the sausage: queso tierno, young Manchego, Mahón, or a mild provolone. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
The almussafes takes its name from Almussafes, a town in Valencia's Ribera Baixa, and belongs to the Valencian esmorzaret, the mid-morning meal that makes a bocadillo into proper food. Its filling shows how regional bar cooking borrows from the wider Spanish larder without losing its own place: sobrasada is most closely tied to the Balearic Islands, but in Valencia it found a home between bread with cheese and onion. The roll is served hot from the plancha, because the dish is made by melting and pressing, not by piling cold ingredients into bread.
Quantity
2 (about 90g each)
split lengthwise
Quantity
120g
at room temperature
Quantity
120g
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 medium (about 160g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| crusty bocadillo rollssplit lengthwise | 2 (about 90g each) |
| sobrasadaat room temperature | 120g |
| queso tierno, young Manchego, Mahón, or mild provolonethinly sliced | 120g |
| onionthinly sliced | 1 medium (about 160g) |
| olive oil | 1 tablespoon |
| salt | 1 pinch |
Warm the olive oil in a frying pan or on a plancha over medium-low heat. Add the sliced onion and a pinch of salt, then cook for 10 to 12 minutes, turning often, until the onion is soft, golden, and sweet. Do not rush it. This is the step that keeps the roll round and mellow instead of sharp.
Split the rolls lengthwise without cutting all the way through. Spread 60g sobrasada inside each roll, then add 60g sliced cheese and half the cooked onion. Keep the filling even from end to end so every bite has sausage, cheese, and onion.
Set the filled rolls on a hot plancha, sandwich press, or heavy frying pan. Press gently and cook for 3 to 4 minutes per side, until the bread is crisp and lightly browned, the cheese has melted, and the sobrasada has softened into the crumb with a glossy red sheen.
Cut each almussafes in half and serve at once, while the filling is still molten and the bread is crisp. Let it sit too long and the bread softens. Hot off the plancha is the point.
1 serving (about 270g)
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