
Chef Isabel
Almussafes Valenciano
Almussafes is Valencian bar-counter food: a crusty roll filled with sobrasada, cheese, and onion, then pressed on the plancha until the bread crisps and the filling runs together.
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Madrid's bocadillo de calamares is squid, flour, hot oil, and crusty bread. The whole thing depends on frying fast enough that the rings crisp before they toughen.
Bocadillo de calamares is Madrid's, which makes people smile because Madrid has no sea. That's the point. The capital made a habit of good fish brought inland, and this sandwich became its quick meal: fried squid rings, a crusty barra, lemon if you like, alioli if the house serves it. Nothing more needs dressing up.
The method that decides it is the fry. Dry the squid well, salt it lightly, flour it just before it goes into the oil, then fry it hot and fast. Calamar is tender one minute and rubber the next. If the oil is too cool, the flour drinks it and turns heavy. If the oil is right, the rings come out pale gold, crisp at the edge, and still sweet inside.
If you're far from Madrid, frozen cleaned squid is often the better buy than tired fresh squid. Thaw it slowly, dry it hard with towels, and cut it into rings yourself if you can. A soft sandwich roll won't do the same job; you want a crusty barra or a narrow baguette that can hold the hot squid without collapsing. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
The bocadillo de calamares belongs to Madrid, especially the bars around Plaza Mayor, where fried squid in bread became a cheap standing meal for workers, students, and families passing through the centre. The dish shows the capital's old inland appetite for sea fish, supplied through markets and trade routes that made Madrid one of Spain's great fish-eating cities despite sitting far from the coast. Its plainness is part of the record: squid, flour, oil, bread, and little interference.
Quantity
600g
cut into 1cm rings
Quantity
240g
Quantity
40g
for extra crispness
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to finish
Quantity
750ml
for frying
Quantity
4, about 18cm each
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
Quantity
120g
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cleaned squid bodies and tentaclescut into 1cm rings | 600g |
| plain flour | 240g |
| fine semolina or rice flour (optional)for extra crispness | 40g |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to finish |
| mild olive oil or sunflower oilfor frying | 750ml |
| crusty barra rolls or narrow baguette pieces | 4, about 18cm each |
| lemoncut into wedges | 1 |
| alioli or mayonnaise (optional) | 120g |
Pat the squid very dry with kitchen towels, inside and out, then cut the bodies into 1cm rings if they are not already sliced. Salt lightly and leave them on a rack or clean towel for 10 minutes while the oil heats. Water is the enemy here; wet squid makes the flour paste up and spit in the pan.
Pour the oil into a deep, heavy pan so it sits at least 4cm deep, and heat it to 180C. If you don't have a thermometer, drop in a pinch of flour; it should sizzle at once and float, not sink quietly. Keep the bread split and ready before you fry, because the squid waits for nobody.
Mix the flour with the semolina or rice flour, if using, in a wide dish. Toss one quarter of the squid through the flour, lift it out, and shake off every loose clump. Flour only the batch you are about to fry. If floured squid sits around, the coating goes damp and heavy.
Lower the squid into the hot oil in a loose single layer and fry for 90 seconds to 2 minutes, turning once, until pale gold and crisp at the edges. Do not crowd the pan; crowded oil drops in temperature and gives you sad, chewy rings. Lift the squid onto a rack or paper towels and salt while hot. Repeat with the remaining batches, bringing the oil back to 180C each time.
Pile the hot squid straight into the split rolls. Squeeze over a little lemon, or spread a thin spoon of alioli inside the bread if that's how you like it. Serve at once, while the flour is still crisp and the bread catches the oil. No lettuce, no tomato, no sweet sauce. That's another sandwich.
1 serving (about 250g)
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