
Chef Joost
Aardappelschotel met Gehakt
A plain name for a quietly clever dish: fresh mince, sweet fried onion, nutmeg, and mashed potato baked until the top goes golden and the table goes silent.
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The bone is not decoration here: it is the old promise that a feast should taste of patience, mustard, honey, and the family table gathered close.
In my grandmother's second notebook, the festive dishes are not written with ceremony. They are written with margins: who came, who brought bread, who preferred the end slice, who took home the bone for soup. Beenham belongs to that kind of page. Not grand in the theatrical sense, but unmistakably a feast, because the whole table has to make room for it.
The name already tells you the truth plainly. Been is bone, ham is ham, and the point is exactly there: the bone carries flavour through the meat and gives the cook a handle on generosity. But let me tell you a secret. The honey-mustard glaze is not a sweet coat to hide ordinary pork. It is a Dutch argument in lacquered form: sharp mustard, floral honey, a little vinegar, a little clove, sweetness kept honest by bite.
This is Christmas cooking in the sensible northern way. Most of the work has already been done by the butcher, through curing and gentle cooking, so your task is not to perform. Your task is to warm the ham slowly, baste it until the glaze darkens and shines, and stop before the meat dries out. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Bring the braadpan to the table if you like, carve thick slices, and save the bone. A dish without its story is half a meal, and soup made from the bone is the next chapter.
Beenham means ham on the bone, a feast cut from the pig's hind leg, and it reflects the Dutch winter tradition of preserving pork after the late-autumn slaughter for use during the December holidays. Mustard has long been a Dutch table staple, with regional traditions surviving in places such as Groningen and Doesburg, while honey-mustard glazes became a practical modern holiday finish for cured ham. The dish is not the property of one province, but its logic is thoroughly Dutch: thrift in the curing, sharpness in the mustard, and generosity in the carving.
Quantity
1, 3 to 4 kg
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
2
Quantity
8
plus extra for studding if desired
Quantity
150g
Quantity
120g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
only if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in cured cooked ham | 1, 3 to 4 kg |
| apple juice or dry cider | 250ml |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| whole clovesplus extra for studding if desired | 8 |
| Dutch mustard, preferably coarse Groningen or Doesburg-style mustard | 150g |
| runny honey | 120g |
| dark brown sugar or donkere basterdsuiker | 2 tablespoons |
| apple cider vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| ground mace | 1/2 teaspoon |
| salt (optional) | only if needed |
Take the ham from the refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. Pat the surface dry. A cold ham goes into the oven sulking and comes out uneven; a tempered one warms gently all the way to the bone.
Heat the oven to 160C. If the ham has a thick fat cap, score it in shallow diamonds, cutting through the fat but not into the meat. Stud a few diamonds with cloves if you like, but don't turn the poor thing into a pincushion. Clove should whisper, not lecture.
Set the ham in a roasting pan with the apple juice or cider, bay leaves, and 8 cloves. Cover loosely with foil and roast for about 1 hour 45 minutes, basting once or twice with the pan juices. You are warming and moistening here, not trying to cook the life out of what the butcher has already cured.
While the ham roasts, stir together the mustard, honey, brown sugar, vinegar, oil, black pepper, and mace. Taste it. It should be sweet first, then sharp, then warm with spice. If it tastes flat, add a spoon more vinegar before you add salt; cured ham brings plenty of salt on its own.
Remove the foil and brush the ham generously with glaze. Raise the oven to 190C and roast for 30 to 40 minutes more, brushing with glaze every 10 minutes, until the surface is deep amber, glossy, and sticky at the edges. If the glaze darkens too quickly, lower the oven again; honey burns before it apologises.
Move the ham to a board and rest it for 20 minutes before carving. Slice thickly across the grain, spooning a little of the glossy pan glaze over the meat. Save the bone for pea soup or brown bean soup; throwing it away would be poor manners toward the pig and toward history.
1 serving (about 340g)
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