
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Kaspressknödel
Pressed bread dumplings from the Alpine south, fried until the cheese catches at the edges and the middle stays soft enough for broth, kraut, or a weekday plate.
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The Bavarian potato salad that works because warm waxy slices drink hot broth first, then oil last, until the bowl turns glossy without mayonnaise.
Bayerischer Kartoffelsalat belongs beside roast pork, grilled sausages, Schnitzel, and the picnic basket. In Bavaria and Swabia the salad is slick with warm broth, vinegar, onion, mustard, and oil. Up north they often bring mayonnaise to the bowl. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This one stays southern. Das ist kein Bierzelt.
The dish works on one move: hot broth over warm potato slices. Warm waxy potatoes open just enough to drink the broth, and the starch on the cut surface loosens into the dressing, so the salad turns creamy without cream and glossy without mayonnaise. Pour cold dressing over cold potatoes and it sits outside the slices like rain on a roof.
I cook the potatoes in their skins because the skin keeps the flesh from waterlogging. I peel them while warm, slice them thin, and fold them with care because broken potato makes paste, not salad. Oil goes in after the broth has soaked in. Fat first blocks the potato from drinking. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Use real broth if you can, beef broth for the Wirtshaus table, vegetable broth if the meal is meatless. Nicht aus dem Glas if the jar tastes of salt and nothing else. Bones, peelings, onion ends, all of that has a job in the pot. Weggeworfen wird nichts.
Potato salad became a common southern German side only after the potato was pushed into wider cultivation in the eighteenth century, most famously through Frederick the Great's Prussian potato orders of the 1740s and 1750s, though Bavaria adopted the tuber through its own farm kitchens and markets. The broth-dressed salad marks the south, especially Bavaria, Swabia, and Franconia, while northern versions more often use mayonnaise or cream. The regional split is not decoration; it changes the whole dish, from a cool bound salad to a warm, sharp, glossy one built on stock.
Quantity
1.2kg
similar size, unpeeled
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
1 small
very finely diced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1.5 teaspoons, plus more for the potato water
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
5 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small bunch
finely sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoessimilar size, unpeeled | 1.2kg |
| good beef broth or vegetable broth | 250ml |
| yellow onionvery finely diced | 1 small |
| white wine vinegar | 4 tablespoons |
| mild German mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1.5 teaspoons, plus more for the potato water |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| neutral oil, such as sunflower or rapeseed oil | 5 tablespoons |
| chivesfinely sliced | 1 small bunch |
Put the unpeeled potatoes in a pot, cover with cold salted water, and bring them up gently. Starting cold cooks the centres and edges at the same pace, so the outside doesn't split before the middle is done. Simmer until a small knife slides in without force, about 20 to 25 minutes depending on size.
While the potatoes cook, warm the broth with the diced onion, vinegar, mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Let it simmer for 2 minutes so the onion loses its raw bite and gives its sweetness into the broth. Keep it hot; warm potato needs hot dressing if it is going to drink properly.
Drain the potatoes and let them sit just until your fingers can handle them, then peel while warm and slice about 4mm thick into a wide bowl. Warm potato slices absorb; cold ones resist. Cut too thick and the middle stays plain, cut too thin and you make potato rubble.
Pour the hot broth mixture over the warm slices in two or three additions, folding gently after each one with a rubber spatula or wide spoon. The starch on the cut potato loosens into the broth and binds it, which is why the salad turns creamy without mayonnaise. Stop when the slices look wet but not drowned; potatoes vary, and the bowl tells you.
Let the salad rest 30 minutes at room temperature, folding once halfway through. Das braucht seine Zeit. The broth moves from the bottom of the bowl into the potato, and the onion, vinegar, and mustard settle into one dressing instead of three separate tastes.
Fold in the oil only after the broth has soaked in, because fat coats the potato and would block the dressing if it went in first. Taste for salt and vinegar, then finish with chives. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, glossy and loose, not stiff.
1 serving (about 280g)
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