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Sonora in a glass: small-batch bacanora poured over ice with fresh pink grapefruit, Squirt made with cane sugar, lime, and a pinch of wild chiltepín on the rim. Smoke, citrus, and fire from the sierra.
This drink is from Sonora. Specifically from the eastern sierra, the ranching country around Bacanora, Sahuaripa, and Arivechi, where the wild agave pacifica grows in the rocky soil and where families have been distilling it in stone-pit ovens for over three centuries. Bacanora is not mezcal. It is its own thing, with its own Denominación de Origen since 2000, and anyone who tells you otherwise has not been to the sierra.
The combination of bacanora, grapefruit, and Squirt is ranchero cocktail logic. Sonora is grapefruit country. The pink toronjas of the Río Sonora valley are juicy and slightly bitter and they were the original mixer for ranch hands who wanted something cold to cut the heat of the desert. Squirt arrived later and got adopted because it carries the same grapefruit signature in carbonated form. Together they do what tonic does for gin: they hold the spirit up without hiding it.
The chiltepín on the rim is non-negotiable. This is the wild chile of northwest Mexico, harvested by hand from August through November in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidental, gathered by Comcáac families on the coast and ranchero families inland. One pepper costs more by weight than almost any other chile in Mexico because nobody has succeeded in farming it commercially. It still grows where the birds drop the seeds. Saber cocinar es saber vivir, and saber beber bien también.
This is the desert poured into a glass. Smoke from the agave pit, citrus from the river valley, fire from the sierra. Asi se hace y punto.
Bacanora production was prohibited in Sonora from 1915 to 1992 under Governor Plutarco Elías Calles, who considered the spirit a vice of the rural poor and made its distillation, sale, and consumption a crime punishable by execution in the early years. Production continued clandestinely in the sierra throughout those 77 years, with families distilling in remote canyons and selling by reputation. The Denominación de Origen Bacanora was granted in 2000 and limits production to 35 municipios in eastern Sonora, all using Agave angustifolia (locally called agave pacifica or yaquiana) cooked in underground stone-pit ovens. The chiltepín, Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum, is the wild ancestor of all domesticated chiles in the Americas and remains one of the few commercially valuable chiles that has resisted cultivation, requiring the seed to pass through a bird's digestive tract to germinate reliably.
Quantity
2 ounces
look for a sierra-bottled brand from Sonora
Quantity
2 ounces
Quantity
1/2 ounce
Quantity
3 ounces
the Mexican formula made with cane sugar
Quantity
1 pinch
lightly crushed between your fingers
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for the rim
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
finely crushed
Quantity
1
for the glass
Quantity
1
for rimming and serving
Quantity
as needed
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bacanoralook for a sierra-bottled brand from Sonora | 2 ounces |
| fresh-squeezed pink grapefruit juice (toronja) | 2 ounces |
| fresh lime juice | 1/2 ounce |
| ice-cold Squirtthe Mexican formula made with cane sugar | 3 ounces |
| dried chiltepínlightly crushed between your fingers | 1 pinch |
| flaky sea saltfor the rim | 1 teaspoon |
| dried chiltepín for the rimfinely crushed | 1/2 teaspoon |
| grapefruit wedgefor the glass | 1 |
| lime wedgefor rimming and serving | 1 |
| large ice cubesfor serving | as needed |
Bacanora is not mezcal. It is a distilled spirit made from Agave angustifolia (agave pacifica) in the sierra of eastern Sonora, around the town of Bacanora and the surrounding municipios. It was illegal to produce or sell from 1915 until 1992 because the post-revolutionary government considered it a peasant vice. The ranchero families kept distilling it in stone-pit ovens in the hills anyway. What you are pouring is the result of three generations of stubbornness. Treat it like that.
On a small flat plate, mix the flaky sea salt with the finely crushed chiltepín. Crush the chiltepín with your fingertips, not a molcajete. The molcajete is for sauce. The fingers are for cocktails. Run a lime wedge around the outside rim of a heavy glass tumbler (vaso jarocho), then press the wet rim into the salt-chile mix at an angle. You want salt and chile on the outside of the rim only, not on the inside. The drinker should choose how much fire enters with each sip.
Fill the rimmed tumbler with large ice cubes. Big cubes melt slow and keep the drink from going watery before you finish it. Pour the bacanora over the ice. Add the fresh grapefruit juice and the lime juice. Squeeze the spent grapefruit wedge over the top and drop it in. The oils from the peel are part of the drink.
Top the glass with ice-cold Squirt. Mexican Squirt, made with cane sugar, not the corn-syrup version sold in the United States. The grapefruit soda is not a sweetener. It is a balancer. It softens the lime acid and lets the bacanora's smoke come forward instead of getting buried. Stir once with a long spoon. Once. You are not making a margarita. You are not aerating it. You are joining the layers.
Crush a single dried chiltepín between your thumb and forefinger and let the pieces fall onto the surface of the drink. This is not garnish. This is fire on top of citrus on top of smoke. The chile floats, the salt sits on the rim, the bacanora rises through the bubbles. Drink it cold and drink it now. It does not improve sitting on the bar.
1 serving (about 230g)
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