
Chef Dimitra
Cypriot Afelia (Αφέλια)
Afelia is Cyprus by surname: pork shoulder, dry red wine, and coriander seeds cracked fresh so their resinous perfume survives the long, dark braise.
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Attiki's lemon-oregano tray roast: chicken browned above, potatoes cut large below, drinking olive oil, garlic, lemon, and all the Sunday pan juices.
Kotopoulo me patates sto fourno is the Attiki home-oven tray roast: chicken, potatoes, lemon, oregano, garlic, and olive oil, all cooked together until the potatoes taste almost more important than the meat. In Athens houses and the villages around it, this is the pan that comes to the table on Sunday and still works on a tired weeknight if you start early enough.
The dish is itself because the potatoes sit low and large in the pan, where the chicken fat, lemon, and olive oil gather. Cut them too small and they surrender. Put them on top and they dry. Keep them underneath and they drink, turning soft inside, browned at the edges, sharp with lemon but rounded by oil.
I don't fuss with this one. Good chicken, waxy potatoes, real oregano, and enough oil to do its work. My mother Sofia made the same tray in Thessaloniki when the house was full, though she would have argued with me about the paprika and then eaten the corner potatoes first. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, even when everyone thinks they already know it.
Kotopoulo me patates sto fourno belongs to the rise of the household oven in twentieth-century urban Greece, when the Sunday roast moved from communal bakery ovens into home kitchens. In Attiki and much of the mainland, the familiar register is lemon, dried oregano, garlic, and olive oil, while some island and northern households make nearby versions with tomato, mustard, or different local herbs. The shared principle is older than the appliance: meat and potatoes cooked in one pan so nothing good is lost.
Quantity
1.6kg
whole chicken cut into 8 pieces, or mixed bone-in pieces
Quantity
1.2kg
peeled and cut into large wedges
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
180ml
Quantity
5
crushed
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
14g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1
cut into wedges, for serving
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chicken or bone-in chicken pieceswhole chicken cut into 8 pieces, or mixed bone-in pieces | 1.6kg |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into large wedges | 1.2kg |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 120ml |
| fresh lemon juice | 90ml |
| warm water or light chicken stock | 180ml |
| garlic clovescrushed | 5 |
| dried Greek oregano (rigani) | 2 teaspoons |
| sweet paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 14g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| lemoncut into wedges, for serving | 1 |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
Heat the oven to 200C. Choose a wide metal tapsi or roasting pan where the potatoes can sit mostly in one layer. Crowded potatoes steam and go pale. A tray roast wants space, oil, and direct heat.
Put the potato wedges in the pan with the olive oil, lemon juice, warm water or stock, garlic, oregano, paprika, salt, and pepper. Turn them well with your hands so every cut face is slicked. The wedges should be large, because small pieces collapse before the chicken is ready.
Nestle the chicken pieces skin-side up among the potatoes, not buried under them. Spoon some of the lemon oil over the skin. Keep the potatoes low in the pan, where the fat and juices collect. This is the method that decides the dish: the potatoes must drink from the bottom while the chicken browns above.
Roast for 45 minutes, then baste the chicken and turn the potatoes carefully. If the pan looks dry, add 60ml hot water around the edges, not over the chicken skin. Continue roasting for 25 to 35 minutes, until the chicken is deep golden and the potatoes are tender with caramelized edges.
Take the pan from the oven and let it stand for 10 minutes. The juices settle, the potatoes hold together, and the lemon comes back up clean instead of tasting boiled. Taste the pan juices and add a final squeeze of lemon only if they need brightness.
Serve straight from the tapsi, with lemon wedges and parsley if you like. Spoon the green-gold pan juices over each plate. This is not a neat little portion dish. It belongs in the middle of the table, where everyone takes the potato with the best browned corner.
1 serving (about 420g)
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