
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Islands Chtapodi Xidato (Χταπόδι Ξιδάτο)
From the Aegean islands, this is the Lenten octopus: simmered slowly without added water, sliced while tender, and steeped in vinegar, oregano, and its own dark cooking liquor.
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Asia Minor chestnut pilaf belongs to the Christmas fasting table: rice, raisins, pine nuts, and pomegranate, fragrant with cinnamon and cooked gently enough for the chestnuts to stay whole.
Pilafi me kastana is the Asia Minor Christmas pilaf: rice glossy with olive oil, roasted chestnuts folded through whole, little raisins for sweetness, and pomegranate scattered at the end like red beads. It is festive without meat, exactly the kind of nistisimo dish the fasting table knows how to make generous.
The chestnuts decide it. Roast them first, peel them while warm, and add them after the rice has been coated in oil. If you boil them into the pot from the beginning, they break down and the pilaf loses its dignity. Keep them in large pieces and the dish eats the way it should: sweet, separate-grained, fragrant, and proper for a Christmas table before the feast fully begins.
I make this in the Politiki register, the kitchen of the City and the Asia Minor families who carried cinnamon, allspice, raisins, and rice dishes into northern Greece with a steady hand. Nothing here is decorative for its own sake. Λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones: chestnuts, rice, oil, and patience.
Chestnut pilafs belong to the Greek kitchens of Constantinople and Asia Minor, where rice, dried fruit, pine nuts, and warm spices moved easily through Ottoman trade routes. After the 1922 expulsion from Asia Minor, refugee families brought these festive nistisima rice dishes into Thessaloniki and other northern Greek cities. Pomegranate at Christmas is not only garnish; in Greek homes it marks abundance and good fortune for the turning year.
Quantity
300g
in the shell
Quantity
300g
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
40g
Quantity
60g
Quantity
1
Quantity
3
Quantity
700ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
80g
for finishing
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chestnutsin the shell | 300g |
| long-grain rice or Greek nychaki rice | 300g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 60ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| pine nuts (koukounaria) | 40g |
| black Corinth raisins or small dark raisins | 60g |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| whole allspice berries | 3 |
| hot vegetable broth or hot water | 700ml |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| pomegranate arilsfor finishing | 80g |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
Heat the oven to 220C. Cut a shallow cross into the rounded side of each chestnut, set them on a tray, and roast for 18 to 22 minutes, until the shells curl back and the nut inside smells sweet. Wrap them in a clean towel for 10 minutes, then peel off both the hard shell and the bitter inner skin while they are still warm.
Rinse the rice in several changes of cool water until the water runs mostly clear, then drain it well for 10 minutes. This keeps the grains separate instead of heavy and pasty, which is the difference between pilafi and a pot of soft rice.
Warm the olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and pale gold, not browned. Add the pine nuts and stir for 1 minute, just until they take a little color.
Add the drained rice and stir for 2 minutes, so every grain is glossy with oil. Add the raisins, cinnamon stick, allspice, salt, and pepper, then fold in the peeled chestnuts gently. Keep the chestnuts in large pieces. This is the method that decides the dish: roast and peel them first, then fold them in softly, so they stay whole and sweet instead of crumbling into the rice.
Pour in the hot broth or water. Bring it to a steady simmer, cover the pot, and lower the heat to its gentlest setting. Cook for 17 minutes without lifting the lid. The liquid should be absorbed and the rice tender, with the chestnuts sitting through it like little golden pieces.
Take the pot off the heat and leave it covered for 10 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and allspice. Fluff the pilaf with a fork, not a spoon, then scatter over the pomegranate and parsley if using. Serve warm, with the oil still glossy on the grains.
1 serving (about 250g)
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