Arroz de Polvo

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot for cooking octopus
• •Heavy-bottomed pot or deep pan for the rice
• •Ladle

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the octopus

   Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil with the halved onion and one bay leaf. Hold the octopus by the head and dip it into the boiling water three times, letting the tentacles curl between each dip. Then lower it fully into the pot and reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook until a knife slides easily into the thickest part of a tentacle, 45 minutes to 1 hour depending on size. Remove the octopus to a cutting board. Reserve 1.5 liters of the cooking liquid. This is liquid gold.

   The three-dip method is not superstition. The thermal shock helps the skin stay intact and the tentacles curl beautifully. Every grandmother on the coast does this. So do I.
2. 2

   Prepare the octopus

   Once the octopus is cool enough to handle, cut the tentacles into bite-sized pieces, about 2-3 cm thick. Slice the head into strips. Don't discard any part. The head meat is just as good as the tentacles. Set aside.

3. 3

   Build the refogado

   In a heavy pot or deep pan, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the diced onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until completely soft and turning golden, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and the chopped coentros stems (save the leaves for later) and cook another 2 minutes until fragrant. Não tenhas pressa. The refogado is the soul of this dish.

   Using the coentros stems in the refogado builds flavor without wasting anything. The leaves come at the end where they belong.
4. 4

   Add tomato and paprika

   Stir in the crushed tomatoes and paprika. Let this cook for 5 minutes, stirring often, until the tomato darkens slightly and the oil begins to separate around the edges. You're building layers of flavor here. Pour in the white wine and let it bubble for 2 minutes, scraping up any bits from the bottom.

5. 5

   Cook the rice malandrinho

   Add the rice to the pot and stir to coat every grain with the refogado. Toast it for 1 minute. Add 1.2 liters of the reserved octopus cooking liquid and the remaining bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes. The rice will absorb the broth slowly. Add more cooking liquid as needed, a ladle at a time. The rice should never be dry. You're not making pilaf. You're making malandrinho: loose, creamy, almost soupy.

   Malandrinho means 'rascal' or 'rogue' in Portuguese. It describes rice that's loose, flowing, mischievous. It should slide on the plate, not sit in a mound. If you can stack it, you've failed.
6. 6

   Finish with the octopus

   When the rice is nearly tender but still has a slight bite, fold in the octopus pieces. The octopus is already cooked; you're just warming it through and letting it marry with the rice. Cook together for 3-4 minutes. Taste and adjust salt. The octopus cooking liquid is unsalted, so you'll likely need a generous hand.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Remove from heat. Stir in most of the chopped coentros leaves. Let the pot rest, covered, for 5 minutes. The rice will continue absorbing liquid but should still be loose when you serve. Ladle into warm bowls. Scatter the remaining coentros on top. Drizzle with your best olive oil. Grind black pepper over each serving. Serve immediately, with bread to soak up every last drop.

Chef Tips

• •Buy frozen octopus if you can. Freezing breaks down the muscle fibers and tenderizes the meat. If using fresh, pound the tentacles against a hard surface before cooking, the way the old fishermen did on the rocks.
• •Never salt the water when cooking octopus. Salt toughens it. Season the final dish instead.
• •Carolino rice from Portugal is ideal, but arborio works well. You need a rice that releases starch and stays creamy. Long-grain rice will not work here.
• •The cooking liquid from the octopus is intensely flavorful. Don't waste a drop. If you have extra, freeze it for next time or use it to cook potatoes.
• •This rice should be served immediately. Unlike some dishes that improve with resting, arroz malandrinho waits for no one. The texture changes as it sits.

Advance Preparation

• •The octopus can be cooked up to a day ahead. Refrigerate the octopus and cooking liquid separately. Bring both to room temperature before proceeding.
• •The refogado can be prepared several hours ahead and held at room temperature. Reheat before adding the rice.
• •Once the rice is added, the dish must be finished and served immediately. Malandrinho rice does not hold.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 400g)