
Chef Juliette
Apricots (Abricots)
Apricots peeled clean and poached just to tenderness, their golden halves held in clear syrup for tarts and cold sweets: a small lesson in texture, restraint, and knowing when fruit is ready.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2558, Pine-apple à la Favorite, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Ananas à la Favorite hides kirsch-bright pineapple inside pistachio frangipane and a fine fried shell, then takes a fierce sugar glaze. Chill the filling through, or it escapes into the fat.
Ananas à la Favorite (pineapple fritters with pistachio frangipane) teaches one uncompromising principle: a soft filling can survive hot fat only when it enters thoroughly cold. The pineapple should remain juicy, the frangipane distinct and nutty, and the batter a fine golden shell. If the cream is merely cool, it loosens before the batter sets and disappears into the pan.
The original assumed a pastry section, trays moving through a cold room, a fryer holding plenty of fat at an even heat, and a salamander waiting for the final glaze. Your honest equivalents are a parchment-lined tray, a short turn in the freezer, a small deep saucepan with a thermometer, and a fiercely heated broiler. Eight half-discs are enough for four people. The brigade quantities and extra hands are scaffolding; the kirsch maceration, thick pistachio frangipane, complete chilling, thin batter, abundant hot fat, and final sugar glaze are the dish and must stay.
One cook, one stove, one evening. Before a single fritter approaches the fat, press the thickest edge gently. It must feel solid and lift cleanly from its tray. That full chill decides everything.
Ananas à la Favorite belongs to the Parisian grand-hôtel pastry repertoire, where pineapple appeared as a formal hot entremets rather than simply sliced fruit. The form traveled from the pastry section to home dinner-party tables as a cold tray, deep saucepan, and domestic broiler replaced the cold room, service fryer, and salamander. Its pistachio frangipane is not decoration: that kirsch-scented layer distinguishes à la Favorite from an ordinary pineapple ring dipped directly in batter.
Quantity
1 home-scaled batch (8 fritters) Pineapple Fritters “à la Favorite” (No. 2429)
prepared according to its own entry
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| finished referenced preparationprepared according to its own entry | 1 home-scaled batch (8 fritters) Pineapple Fritters “à la Favorite” (No. 2429) |
Make one home-scaled batch of Pineapple Fritters “à la Favorite” (No. 2429) exactly as its own entry directs, yielding eight pineapple half-discs. Keep the preparation whole. Plain pineapple dipped in batter is another fritter; the kirsch maceration, pistachio frangipane, chilling, frying, and glaze together define à la Favorite.
At the chilling checkpoint in Pineapple Fritters “à la Favorite” (No. 2429), press the thickest coated edge lightly. It must feel solid and release from the tray without smearing. If the frangipane dents or clings, stop and return the whole tray to the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes. Ça se rattrape. Frying soft pieces only sends the cream into the fat.
Complete the frying and glazing of Pineapple Fritters “à la Favorite” (No. 2429) only when the table is ready. In a home saucepan, work two pieces at a time so the fat holds its heat and each fritter has room to float. The small batches replace the brigade fryer honestly; they do not change the technique.
Let the finished fritters shed excess fat on a wire rack before moving them to their serving napkin. Arrange them in a loose overlapping row and carry them to the table at once, while the glazed shell is crisp and the pineapple remains bright beneath it. À table!
1 serving (2 fritters, about 175g)
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