
Chef Juliette
Almond Pudding
Six almond-lined moulds, gently poached until softly risen, with white-wine sabayon scented by orgeat. The lesson is simple and exact: the bain-marie must tremble, never boil.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2535, Soufflé Palmyre, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Vanilla soufflé rises around delicate layers of ladyfingers saturated with anisette and kirsch, its golden crown hiding a fragrant, tender heart. Keep the biscuit layers light, and Palmyre lifts magnificently.
Soufflé Palmyre (vanilla soufflé layered with anisette-and-kirsch ladyfingers) teaches one exact lesson: lift must be protected at every layer. The vanilla preparation stays aerated, while the saturated biscuits lie thinly and evenly through it. Pile them heavily and the rise stops dead.
The source entry assumes a pastry station with vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation ready, a timbale waiting, and spare hands to soak, fold, layer, and bake without delay. This is pastry work, so it asks for neither saucier nor stockpot; one saucepan, one bowl, a 1.2-litre straight-sided dish, and a conventional oven do the work at home. No salamander is wanted, because the crown must colour as the interior rises. The ready component and extra hands are brigade scaffolding and can go. The vanilla foundation, both liqueurs, and the alternating biscuit layers are the dish, so they stay. This version supplies the proportions the entry leaves to professional judgment and scales them to four servings: one cook, one stove, one evening.
When it is right, Palmyre arrives tall and butter-gold, its ivory centre fragrant with vanilla and crossed by tender little strata of biscuit carrying anise and cherry. The step that decides everything is the layering: keep each biscuit course sparse, single-deep, and even, then get the timbale into the oven at once.
Soufflé Palmyre belongs to the named dessert variations of the Parisian grand-kitchen canon, where cooks used a master vanilla soufflé preparation to carry a particular aromatic garnish. Here the identifying garnish is biscuits à la cuillère saturated with anisette and kirsch, layered through the timbale rather than served beside it. Though sometimes grouped with mousses and parfaits, Palmyre is a hot baked soufflé and must travel from oven to table without waiting.
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
divided
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 100 g)
divided
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 245 g)
Quantity
1
split lengthwise and seeds scraped
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 30 g)
Quantity
4
separated
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.75 g)
Quantity
6 biscuits (50 g)
broken crosswise into halves
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
Quantity
1
for rescuing overbeaten whites
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 8 g)
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted butterdivided | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
| granulated sugardivided | ½ cup (120 ml / 100 g) |
| whole milk | 1 cup (240 ml / 245 g) |
| vanilla beansplit lengthwise and seeds scraped | 1 |
| all-purpose flour | ¼ cup (60 ml / 30 g) |
| large eggsseparated | 4 |
| fine sea salt | ⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.75 g) |
| crisp ladyfinger biscuitsbroken crosswise into halves | 6 biscuits (50 g) |
| anisette | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| kirsch | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| additional large egg white (optional)for rescuing overbeaten whites | 1 |
| confectioners' sugarfor finishing | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 8 g) |
Set a rack in the lower-middle of the oven, place a heavy baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 190°C conventional, 170°C fan, or 375°F. Brush a 1.2-litre straight-sided soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon (14 g) of the butter, working from base to rim in upward strokes. Coat it with 2 tablespoons (25 g) of the granulated sugar, then tip out the loose excess. Butter gives the batter purchase; the sugar leaves a delicate crust.
Warm the milk with the vanilla seeds, pod, and 2 tablespoons (25 g) of the granulated sugar until small bubbles gather at the edge. Cover, remove from the heat, and infuse for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook gently for 90 seconds without letting it colour. Remove the vanilla pod, then whisk the warm milk into the roux in three additions. Return it to low heat and stir until very thick, smooth, and glossy, about 2 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the yolks one at a time, followed by the salt. If the base forms lumps, whisk it firmly off the heat and pass it through a sieve. Spread it in a wide bowl and stir occasionally until warm rather than hot, about 8 minutes; a hot base steals the air from the whites.
Mix the anisette and kirsch in a shallow dish. Turn each ladyfinger piece briefly through the mixture, letting it absorb the liqueurs through the centre while still holding its shape. Set the pieces in a single layer and brush any remaining mixture over dry-looking spots. They must be saturated, not left swimming; loose liquid weighs down the soufflé.
Beat the 4 egg whites in a spotless, grease-free bowl until they hold soft peaks. Add the remaining ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar gradually, beating until the whites are glossy and hold a medium-firm peak whose tip bends slightly. Stop there. If they become dry and clumpy, ça se rattrape: whisk in the additional unwhipped egg white by hand, a spoonful at a time, just until the foam turns supple and glossy again.
Stir one-quarter of the whipped whites into the warm vanilla base to lighten it. Add the remaining whites in two batches, cutting down through the centre with a broad spatula, sweeping across the bottom, and lifting the mixture over itself while turning the bowl. Stop when no broad white streaks remain. A few fine traces are safer than another dozen folds; overworking expels the air that must lift the biscuits.
Spoon one-third of the soufflé preparation into the prepared dish and level it gently. Arrange half the saturated ladyfinger pieces over it in one sparse, single-piece-deep layer, leaving narrow gaps between them. Cover with another third of the preparation, add the remaining biscuits in the same manner, then finish with the last third of the preparation. If the biscuits collect in a heavy mat, lift and redistribute them with the tip of the spatula before covering them. Do not overlap or press them down. Smooth the top lightly and run a clean thumb around the inner rim to make a shallow channel, then move the dish straight to the oven.
Set the dish on the heated baking sheet and bake without opening the oven for the first 22 minutes. Continue until the soufflé stands well above the rim, its crown is butter-gold with fine fissures, and the centre gives a small quiver without a liquid ripple, 25 to 30 minutes in all. Dust with confectioners' sugar and carry it directly to the table. If it settles before serving, spoon it at once into warm bowls; the texture will be softer, but every bit of vanilla, anisette, and kirsch remains. Never apologize at your own table. À table!
1 serving (about 160g)
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