
Chef Juliette
Ordinary or White Consommé
Beef shin, lean beef, and fowl begin in cold water and rise slowly toward a tremble. Skim before the boil, and you learn the quiet discipline that gives every clear French broth its backbone.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 227, Matignon, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Matignon turns a patient, butter-stewed mince of carrot, onion, celery, ham, and herbs into a supple covering that clings to a roast, then Madeira gives the final bright, nutty gloss.
Matignon (a fine, butter-stewed aromatic covering for roasts) teaches that the cut is part of the cooking. Carrot, onion, celery, and ham must be small and even enough to soften together, hold the butter, and cling to the joint instead of tumbling into the roasting pan.
The professional entry assumed a saucier on staff, judging an unnamed quantity of butter by eye while the rest of the brigade handled the meat. Matignon requires no stockpot kept perpetually on the fire and no salamander, so neither belongs here. A sharp knife, a 10-inch skillet, and one attentive cook are the honest home equivalents. The source proportions already make a sensible batch for one large joint or fowl, so I keep every listed ratio, specify four tablespoons of butter where the book trusted the saucier's hand, and define the fine mince as 2 to 3 millimetres.
Stewed gently, the vegetables become tender and glossy without browning; Madeira then lifts the pale fond and leaves its nutty sweetness behind. The knife work is not brigade scaffolding. It is the dish. Cut everything finely and evenly before the pan comes near the stove, and the Matignon will stay where you put it.
Matignon belongs to the codified professional kitchens of Paris rather than to a particular regional larder, its courtly name attached to a practical garnish of vegetables, ham, herbs, butter, and Madeira. It traveled from grand-kitchen roasting practice to bourgeois home tables as a means of perfuming large joints and fowl while keeping the aromatics with the meat. Its distinction from mirepoix is useful: mirepoix may be cut more coarsely and strained away, while Matignon is minced fine, stewed tender, and intended to cling.
Quantity
2 medium, yielding about 1 cup (240 ml / 120 g)
finely minced
Quantity
2 medium, about 2 cups (475 ml / 300 g)
finely minced
Quantity
2 stalks, about 1/2 cup (120 ml / 60 g)
finely minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
cut paysanne-fashion into tiny thin triangles
Quantity
1 sprig
Quantity
1/2 leaf
crushed
Quantity
4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g)
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| carrots, orange-red outer flesh onlyfinely minced | 2 medium, yielding about 1 cup (240 ml / 120 g) |
| yellow onionsfinely minced | 2 medium, about 2 cups (475 ml / 300 g) |
| tender inner celery stalks from the heartfinely minced | 2 stalks, about 1/2 cup (120 ml / 60 g) |
| lean jambon crucut paysanne-fashion into tiny thin triangles | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| fresh thyme | 1 sprig |
| dried bay leafcrushed | 1/2 leaf |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g) |
| Madeira | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) |
Peel the carrots, then shave away and keep only their deeply colored outer flesh, leaving the paler central core for another pot. Cut the carrot, onion, and celery into thin slices, narrow strips, and finally an even 2 to 3 millimetre mince. Cut the ham paysanne-fashion, meaning tiny, thin triangles in this preparation. Keep the pieces distinct rather than crushing them into paste; an even cut lets every ingredient become tender at the same moment.
Melt 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) of the butter in a heavy 10-inch (25 cm) skillet over medium-low heat, reserving the final tablespoon. Add the carrot, onion, celery, ham, thyme, and crushed bay, then turn everything until each fleck shines with butter. Cover loosely and stew for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring often and adding the reserved butter halfway through, until the onion is translucent, the celery has relaxed, and the carrot yields when pressed. Keep the mixture pale. If a brown patch begins forming, do not scrape it through the vegetables. Ça se rattrape: lift the pale mixture into a clean pan, leave the dark fond behind, add the reserved butter if it has not yet gone in, and continue over gentler heat.
Remove the thyme stem, raise the heat to medium, and pour in the Madeira. Swill it around the skillet while scraping up only the pale, sweet fond, then cook for 2 to 3 minutes. The sharp alcoholic aroma should disappear, the free liquid should reduce, and the Matignon should sit in a glossy mound rather than a puddle. Do not salt it automatically; the jambon cru supplies seasoning, and the joint or fowl will carry its own.
Spread the finished Matignon on a shallow plate and let it cool until just warm. When a roast recipe calls for it, cover the joint or fowl with an even layer about 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3 to 5 mm) thick, then follow that recipe's directions for barding, covering, and roasting. Matignon is an aromatic covering, not a liquid marinade, and it should not face fierce oven heat unprotected. Used as intended, it bastes the surface with butter and Madeira while the fine vegetables remain close to the meat.
1 serving (about 56g)
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