
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1432, Treatment and Poaching of Ham Mousselines, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Mousselines de jambon turn chilled ham forcemeat into delicate, meringue-shaped portions, decorated by hand and poached at precisely a tremble. Keep the water below a boil and they stay light, tender, and whole.
Mousselines de jambon (delicate poached ham forcemeat dumplings) teach one exact lesson: the water must tremble without boiling. At 208°F (98°C), the chilled farce swells and sets while keeping its meringue-like shape. A rolling boil worries the surface, tears away the decoration, and can break the mousselines before their centers are firm.
The original assumed a brigade with chilled ham farce ready, a piping bag at hand, and a steamer or drying stove able to hold an unwavering poach. It did not call on a saucier, a stockpot never off the fire, or a salamander, so neither do we. Your honest equivalent is a wide buttered sauté pan, two spoons or one piping bag, a saucepan of salted water, and an instant-read thermometer. The drying stove and elaborate service choreography are scaffolding and can go. The cold farce, the meringue form, the ham or truffle decoration, and the 18-to-20-minute poach at 208°F are the dish, so they stay.
For the home table, the batch becomes eight generous 75 g mousselines, two for each guest. The source gives one crucial ratio, one-third ounce of salt per quart of water, and that ratio remains exact at the smaller scale. Pour the water down the side of the pan, never onto the shapes, then guard the temperature. One cook, one stove, one evening. The step that decides the dish is simple: hold the water at 208°F for the full poach.
Mousselines de jambon belong to the Parisian grand-kitchen tradition, where the practical French family of forcemeats and quenelles was refined into individual portions shaped for formal service. Spoon moulding, piping, and tiny cutouts of ham or truffle allowed each serving to arrive intact and unmistakably savory. The comparison to Ordinary Meringue (No. 2382) concerns silhouette and piping only: a mousseline is poached forcemeat, not sweet meringue folded into ham.
Quantity
2½ cups (600 ml / 600 g)
thoroughly chilled
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
softened, for the pan
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g)
cut into small lozenges, crescents, or discs
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
thinly sliced and cut into small lozenges, crescents, or discs
Quantity
12 cups (2.8 L / 2.8 kg)
Quantity
1½ tablespoons (22 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
1 finished piece
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| prepared ham mousseline forcemeatthoroughly chilled | 2½ cups (600 ml / 600 g) |
| unsalted buttersoftened, for the pan | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| thin cooked ham slices (optional)cut into small lozenges, crescents, or discs | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) |
| preserved black truffle (optional)thinly sliced and cut into small lozenges, crescents, or discs | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| water | 12 cups (2.8 L / 2.8 kg) |
| fine sea salt | 1½ tablespoons (22 ml / 28 g) |
| Ordinary Meringue (No. 2382), for visual shaping reference only (optional) | 1 finished piece |
Keep the prepared ham mousseline forcemeat in the cold until it is firm enough to hold the trace of a spoon. Butter the bottom and lower sides of a 30 cm (12-inch) straight-sided sauté pan generously, leaving no dry patches where the delicate mixture could catch. Divide the farce into eight equal 75 g portions, returning them to the cold if they soften while you work.
For spoon moulding, use two large spoons dipped briefly in cold water to form each portion into a smooth, high oval, placing it directly in the buttered pan. For piping, fit a sturdy bag with a 16 mm (⅝-inch) plain or star tip and pipe eight upright mounds, twisting slightly at the base and lifting cleanly to leave either a smooth or grooved peak. Use the finished Ordinary Meringue (No. 2382) only as the source intends, a visual model for height and contour, never as part of the ham mixture. Leave at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) between the mousselines.
Choose either the ham or truffle decoration. Lay one or two small lozenges, crescents, or discs on each mousseline and press only enough to make them adhere without flattening the mound. Keep the shapes small and paper-thin so they follow the curve as the mousseline swells. If a decoration slides, blot its underside dry, chill the pan for 5 minutes, and press it back onto the cold surface.
Bring the water and fine sea salt to a full boil in a large saucepan, maintaining the source ratio of one-third ounce of salt per quart. Place the sauté pan over low heat, then pour the boiling salted water slowly down its inner wall, never directly over the mousselines, until they are completely covered. Slip the thermometer into the water between two shapes without touching the pan floor, and let the temperature settle at 208°F (98°C) before starting the timer.
Poach the mousselines for 18 to 20 minutes, keeping the water at a constant 208°F (98°C). The surface should barely tremble, with small bubbles gathering below rather than breaking hard across the top. Do not stir, turn, or prod the mousselines while their outer layer is setting. If the water reaches a rolling boil, lift the pan entirely from the heat until it falls back to 208°F, then return it over a lower flame. If an edge begins to feather, leave it untouched for 2 minutes so it can set before moving the pan. Ça se rattrape.
At 18 minutes, test one mousseline gently. It should feel resilient rather than soft, and a thin skewer inserted into the center should emerge hot and clean. If the prepared farce contains raw meat or egg, confirm a center temperature of at least 160°F (71°C). Give it the remaining 2 minutes if needed. Lift each mousseline with a broad slotted spoon, let it drain for a few seconds, and arrange two per person on a warmed platter. Serve at once, while the contours remain full and the surface is tender. À table!
1 serving (about 155g)
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