Soufflé de Jambon Perigourdine

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •2-quart (1.9-litre) straight-sided soufflé dish or timbale mould
• •Heavy medium saucepan
• •Food processor or sharp chef's knife
• •Electric hand mixer or large balloon whisk
• •Large flexible spatula
• •Truffle shaver or very sharp paring knife
• •Heavy baking sheet

Instructions

1. 1

   Ready the timbale

   Set a rack in the lower third of the oven, place a heavy baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 400°F (200°C), or 375°F (190°C fan). Use 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter to coat the base and sides of a 2-quart (1.9-litre) straight-sided soufflé dish, brushing upward toward the rim. Chill the buttered dish while making the base. Pulse the ham in a food processor until very fine but not reduced to a sticky paste; a sharp knife and patience give the same result.

   The straight sides of the old timbale guide the rise. A round casserole with sloping walls spreads the mixture outward, so use a proper soufflé dish or another deep, straight-sided ovenproof vessel.
2. 2

   Build the panade

   Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and whisk for 2 minutes, cooking the roux until it smells faintly of warm biscuits but takes no colour. Combine the warm milk and cream, then whisk them into the roux in three additions. Bring the mixture to a gentle bubble and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring into every corner, until the panade, the thick binding base, holds the track of the whisk and pulls cleanly from the pan for a moment.

   If the liquid went in too quickly and the panade has lumps, take it off the heat and whisk hard. If a few remain, press it through a fine sieve before adding the ham. Ça se rattrape.
3. 3

   Finish the ham base

   Stir the minced ham into the hot panade and cook for 1 minute, just long enough to distribute it evenly. Taste before the raw yolks go in, then add the white pepper and only as much salt as the ham needs. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the 5 yolks one at a time, making each disappear before adding the next. Scrape the base into a wide mixing bowl and stir it occasionally for 8 to 10 minutes, until merely lukewarm. If the bowl still feels hot against your palm, wait; heat softens the egg-white foam before it can reach the oven.

   During the final minutes of cooling, slice about two-thirds of the truffle thinly enough to bend without turning transparent. Finely chop the remaining third and cover both portions closely so their perfume stays in the dish.
4. 4

   Whip and fold

   Put the 5 egg whites in a spotless, grease-free bowl. Whisk until foamy, then continue at medium-high speed until they form firm, glossy peaks whose tips bend slightly. Stop there. Stir one-quarter of the whites briskly into the ham base to loosen it, then fold in the remainder in two additions with a broad cut down through the centre and a sweep up the side. Turn the bowl as you work and stop as soon as no large white pockets remain; a few fine streaks are safer than a mixture folded flat.

   If the whites become dry, grainy, or clumped, add the optional unbeaten egg white and whisk only until the foam becomes glossy again. Ça se rattrape. Dry whites resist folding and leave chalky pockets in the soufflé.
5. 5

   Layer the truffles

   Spoon one-third of the soufflé mixture into the buttered dish and spread it gently without pressing out the air. Lay half the truffle slices across it in a loose, even litter, keeping them just inside the edge. Add a second third of the mixture, arrange the remaining slices over it, then cover with the final third. Level the surface with two light strokes and scatter the chopped truffle evenly over the crown. Wipe any batter from the rim and move the dish directly to the oven.

6. 6

   Bake without peeking

   Set the soufflé on the heated baking sheet and immediately lower the oven to 375°F (190°C), or 350°F (180°C fan). Bake for 30 to 35 minutes without opening the door during the first 25 minutes. It is ready when the crown is deeply golden, the soufflé stands well above the rim, and the centre gives a slow, contained tremble when the dish is nudged. It should not slosh.

   If the crown is dark after 25 minutes but the centre still moves like liquid, open the door briefly, lay a loose sheet of foil over the top, and give it another 3 to 5 minutes. The foil protects the chopped truffle and buys the centre time to set.
7. 7

   Serve the rise

   Carry the dish straight to the table and serve with a broad spoon, cutting down through the crown so every portion receives ham, tender interior, and both seams of sliced truffle. A soufflé naturally settles as it is served. If it sinks more than expected, it does not rise twice, but it remains tender and fragrant, so spoon it generously and never apologize at your own table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose a tender, unsmoked cooked ham such as jambon de Paris. Smoked or heavily cured country ham overwhelms the truffle and brings too much salt to a base that reduces as it cooks.
• •Fresh Tuber melanosporum gives the deepest perfume, but a good whole preserved black truffle is the classical pantry's honest answer when fresh is unavailable. Truffle oil cannot supply the sliced layers required by the entry, and its perfume is too blunt for this soufflé.
• •Check the capacity of the dish before beginning. The folded mixture should reach roughly three-quarters of the way up the sides; if the vessel is smaller than 2 quarts, butter a separate ramekin for any excess instead of overfilling the main dish.
• •Set the table, dress the salad, and pour the wine before whipping the whites. A soufflé is generous but punctual. A dry Bergerac blanc keeps the table in the Périgord larder and has enough freshness for the ham and cream.
• •Leftovers can be covered and chilled for up to 2 days. Reheat them gently until hot, understanding that the soufflé will remain tender but will not regain its original height.

Advance Preparation

• •The panade can be cooked with the ham up to 1 day ahead, but stop before adding the yolks. Press reusable wrap directly against its surface and chill it. Rewarm it gently until pliable, remove it from the heat, add the yolks, and cool it to lukewarm before proceeding.
• •The soufflé dish can be buttered earlier in the day and kept chilled. This gives the coating time to firm and removes one small job from the final minutes.
• •Slice and chop the truffle no more than 2 hours ahead, keeping the two portions separately covered. Do not fold or layer the soufflé in advance; once the whites meet the base, the dish goes directly into the oven.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)