Chef Juliette
Fresh Leg of Pork
Jambon frais rôti teaches the quiet discipline of the roast: fierce heat for bronze, gentle heat for an even center, then a proper rest before carving into juicy slices.
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The Preparation of the Soufflé with Raw Ham
Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1424, The Preparation of the Soufflé with Raw Ham, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Soufflé de jambon cru rises on cold mousseline forcemeat and firm egg whites, teaching the essential rule of fine forcemeat: preserve the emulsion, then protect the air all the way to the table.
Main Dishes
French
Dinner Party
Special Occasion
30 min
Active Time
30 min cook•1 hr total
Yield4 servings
Soufflé de jambon cru (raw-ham soufflé) teaches the discipline of farce mousseline, fine cream-enriched forcemeat. Keep the base cold and sufficiently firm to accept the reduced Béchamel and whipped whites without losing its emulsion. That is the one true thing to know before touching a pan. Warm forcemeat turns loose and greasy; cold forcemeat holds its cream, carries the air, and rises with a tender, almost satin interior.
The brigade formula assumed a saucier on staff with reduced Béchamel ready, a garde-manger working meat through a mortar and tamis, ice at the elbow, and an oven watched through service. The stock never off the fire and the salamander were familiar brigade supports, but this entry calls on neither. At home, a food processor, a fine sieve, a bowl over ice, and an ordinary oven are the honest equivalents. The mortar work is scaffolding and may go; the fine texture, cold emulsion, and last-minute folding are the dish and must stay.
This version halves the original pound of raw ham to eight ounces for four servings, so its four tablespoons of Béchamel become two and its four finishing whites become two. Nothing else in the proportion changes. Here raw ham means fresh, uncured pork leg, not prosciutto, Bayonne ham, or sliced deli ham. Have every component cold before you begin, because once the whites are folded, the soufflé goes directly into the oven. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Soufflé de jambon cru belongs to the Paris-centered French classical grand kitchen rather than the larder of a single province. It carries farce mousseline from the work of quenelles and delicate garnishes into a hot baked course, joining charcuterie technique to the soufflé method. Soufflé never meant sweets alone: classical kitchens applied the name equally to light preparations of meat, poultry, fish, and shellfish.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline”
Quantity
½ batch (about 2 cups / 475 ml / 500 g) Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195)
prepared with 8 ounces (227 g) very cold fresh, uncured raw ham in place of chicken
reduced Béchamel sauce
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g)
very thick and completely cold
large egg whites
Quantity
2 large egg whites (about ¼ cup / 60 ml / 60 g)
cold
unsalted butter
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
softened, for the dish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline”prepared with 8 ounces (227 g) very cold fresh, uncured raw ham in place of chicken | ½ batch (about 2 cups / 475 ml / 500 g) Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195) |
| reduced Béchamel saucevery thick and completely cold | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) |
| large egg whitescold | 2 large egg whites (about ¼ cup / 60 ml / 60 g) |
| unsalted buttersoftened, for the dish | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
Equipment Needed
- •1-quart (1-liter) straight-sided ceramic soufflé dish
- •Food processor and fine-mesh sieve for preparing the referenced mousseline
- •Large bowl with ice for keeping the forcemeat cold
- •Clean balloon whisk or electric hand mixer
- •Instant-read thermometer
Instructions
- 1
Ready the oven
Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) with a rack just below center. Brush a 1-quart (1-liter) soufflé dish generously with the softened butter, carrying the brush upward along the sides so the mixture has a clean path as it rises. Chill the buttered dish while you assemble the preparation.
The oven must be fully heated before the whites are folded. An assembled meat soufflé cannot wait on the counter while the oven catches up. - 2
Work in the Béchamel
Set the bowl of Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195) inside a larger bowl of ice. Work in the cold reduced Béchamel one spoonful at a time with a firm wooden spoon or flexible spatula, stopping as soon as the mixture is smooth and evenly combined. It should remain thick enough to hold a deep ridge. If it loosens, shines with separated fat, or feels warmer than refrigerator-cold, stop. Ça se rattrape: set it over fresh ice for 5 to 10 minutes, then stir slowly until it tightens again. Do not add more liquid.
- 3
Whip the whites
Put the cold egg whites in a perfectly clean, dry bowl and whisk until they form stiff, glossy peaks. Stop when a lifted peak stands upright with only its tip bending; whites beaten until dry and clumpy will not fold cleanly. If grease prevents them from mounting, transfer fresh whites to a clean bowl and begin again. There is no useful argument to have with a greasy whisk.
- 4
Fold without deflating
Stir one-third of the whites briskly into the cold ham mousseline to lighten its weight. Fold in the remaining whites in two additions, cutting down through the center, sweeping across the bottom, and turning the mixture over itself. Stop when no white streaks remain. The preparation should look light but still hold its shape; repeated folding after that point only presses out the air you worked to build.
- 5
Fill and bake
Spoon the mixture immediately into the chilled dish, filling it no more than three-quarters full. Level the top lightly, then run a clean fingertip around the inside rim to separate the mixture from the edge. Bake without opening the door for the first 20 minutes, then continue until the soufflé has risen above the rim, the top is evenly bronzed, and the center reaches 160°F (71°C), about 25 to 30 minutes in all. If the top colors too quickly, wait until the rise has set before laying a loose piece of foil over it; opening the oven early is what brings the crown down.
- 6
Serve at once
Carry the soufflé directly to the table in its baking dish. Cut through the bronzed crown with a broad serving spoon and divide the tender center among four warmed plates. It will settle as it is served, because every proper soufflé does. That is not failure, it is supper. À table!
Chef Tips
- •Ask the butcher for lean, fresh pork from the leg and say plainly that it must be uncured. Cured jambon is already salted and dried; it produces a heavy, over-seasoned mousseline rather than the delicate preparation intended here.
- •The reduced Béchamel should be thicker than table sauce, holding the trail of the spoon, and it must be cold through to the center. A warm or flowing sauce loosens the forcemeat before the whites ever arrive.
- •Cold is technique here, not fuss. Chill the meat, cream, processor bowl, blade, Béchamel, and mixing bowl. If the base begins to warm while you work, return it to ice immediately.
- •Serve with a simply dressed bitter-leaf salad and a dry white wine with enough acidity to meet the cream. The soufflé needs contrast, not another rich sauce.
Advance Preparation
- •The Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195) may be prepared with the raw ham up to 6 hours ahead, covered tightly, and held at or below 40°F (4°C). Set it over ice again before adding the Béchamel.
- •Reduce the Béchamel a day ahead, cover its surface directly so no skin forms, and chill it completely. Stir it smooth while cold before measuring.
- •Butter the soufflé dish several hours ahead and keep it chilled. Whip and fold the egg whites only when the oven is hot and the table is ready, then bake without delay.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 130g)
Calories
330 calories
Total Fat
28 g
Saturated Fat
17 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
11 g
Cholesterol
110 mg
Sodium
400 mg
Total Carbohydrates
3 g
Dietary Fiber
0 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
16 g
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