Selle de Veau à la Nelson

Selle de Veau à la Nelson (veal saddle Nelson-style) teaches architecture. The braised joint is carved, rebuilt with Soubise and ham, and crowned with truffled Parmesan soufflé until every serving carries the whole composition. Know one thing before you touch the pan: the buttered paper collar is a working mould, not decoration. Unless it stands firmly around the rebuilt saddle, the soufflé spreads instead of climbing.

The grand kitchen assumed a saucier on staff, a stock never off the fire, truffle purée by the quart, and spare hands to carve the veal while its liquor reduced. Here, a short centre-cut saddle serves four, one saucepan handles the reduction, and prepared black truffle purée supplies the concentrated truffle foundation. The brigade measure becomes three cups of soufflé and three quarters of a cup of purée, keeping their relation while fitting one joint. There is no salamander step to imitate; the source calls for a moderate oven, and your oven is precisely the right tool.

The spare hands and enormous quantities are scaffolding, so they go. The braise, orderly collops, Soubise and ham between them, one-inch truffled soufflé, buttered collar, and reduced liquor served apart are the dish, so every one stays. Build the collar snugly. That is the step that decides the crown.