
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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A tender, cinnamon-scented loaf that transforms summer's most abundant squash into something worth waking up for, dense enough to slice clean and moist enough to skip the butter entirely.
Every grandmother worth her apron knew this trick. You take the zucchini threatening to overtake the garden, shred it fine, and fold it into a batter so warmly spiced that children devour vegetables without suspicion. This is American ingenuity at its finest.
The bread emerged from necessity. Mid-century home cooks faced zucchini harvests that bordered on agricultural emergency. One plant produces enough squash to feed a neighborhood, and our grandmothers, raised to waste nothing, found ways to use every last one. They discovered something wonderful: shredded zucchini releases moisture during baking, creating a crumb so tender it barely needs chewing.
I've made this bread hundreds of times, and the technique hasn't changed since I learned it from a woman in Oregon who grew zucchini the size of baseball bats. The vegetable disappears completely into the loaf. What remains is warm cinnamon, a hint of nutmeg, and that unmistakable moistness that keeps for days on the counter and improves overnight. This is the bread you slice thick for breakfast, wrap in wax paper for lunch boxes, and serve to guests who ask for the recipe before they've finished their first piece.
Quantity
2 cups (240g)
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3
at room temperature
Quantity
1 cup (200g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (110g)
packed
Quantity
1 cup (240ml)
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
2 cups (about 2 medium)
shredded, not squeezed
Quantity
1 cup (120g)
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups (240g) |
| ground cinnamon | 2 teaspoons |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/2 teaspoon |
| baking soda | 1 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| large eggsat room temperature | 3 |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup (200g) |
| light brown sugarpacked | 1/2 cup (110g) |
| vegetable oil | 1 cup (240ml) |
| pure vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons |
| zucchinishredded, not squeezed | 2 cups (about 2 medium) |
| walnuts (optional)chopped | 1 cup (120g) |
Position a rack in the center of your oven and heat to 350°F. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan thoroughly with butter, then dust with flour, tapping out the excess. This bread has a tendency to cling, and nothing ruins a perfect loaf faster than leaving half of it stuck to the pan.
Whisk together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Make sure the leavening is evenly distributed throughout. Set this aside while you prepare the wet ingredients.
Trim the ends from your zucchini and shred on the large holes of a box grater. You want pieces about the thickness of matchsticks, not the fine mush a food processor produces. Do not squeeze out the moisture. That liquid is essential. It creates the signature moistness that makes this bread irresistible.
In a separate large bowl, whisk the eggs until slightly foamy. Add both sugars and whisk vigorously until the mixture lightens in color, about one minute. Stream in the oil while whisking, then add the vanilla. The batter should look glossy and thick, like a well-made mayonnaise.
Add the shredded zucchini to the wet ingredients and stir until evenly combined. The green shreds will float throughout the batter. This is your last chance to see them. Once baked, they vanish into the crumb like a well-kept secret.
Pour the wet ingredients over the flour mixture. Fold gently with a rubber spatula, scraping the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any hiding pockets of flour. Mix only until you see no more dry streaks. The batter will be thick and heavy. If using walnuts, fold them in now with just a few strokes.
Scrape the batter into your prepared pan, spreading it evenly and pushing it into the corners. The pan will be nearly two-thirds full. Bake for 55 to 65 minutes, until a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out with just a few moist crumbs clinging to it. The top will dome and crack along the center. This is proper.
Let the bread rest in the pan for fifteen minutes. The structure needs time to set, and removing it too soon will cause the loaf to collapse or break apart. Run a thin knife around the edges, then turn out onto a wire rack. Cool completely before slicing, at least one hour. I know this requires patience. The bread rewards your restraint.
1 serving (about 63g)
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