
Chef Dimitra
Amygdalota Hydras kai Androu (Αμυγδαλωτά Ύδρας και Άνδρου)
Hydra and Andros give amygdalota their island surname: ground almond, sugar, egg white, and rosewater, baked pale so the center stays soft as marzipan.
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Symi's zacharena are yeasted Easter cookies scented with mastic and rosewater, baked dry and pale, then covered in powdered sugar until they look like small snowdrifts.
Zacharena Symis are Symi's Easter sugar cookies: small yeasted biscuits scented with mastiha and rosewater, baked until pale and crisp, then buried so deeply in powdered sugar that the first touch leaves your fingers white. They sit beside red eggs and tsoureki on the Dodecanese Easter table, but they are not mainland kourabiedes. No almonds, no heavy shortbread. The region is the dish's surname.
The method that decides them is the bake before the sugar. Give the dough enough time to puff, then bake the shaped cookies until they feel light and dry underneath, not merely colored on top. If they stay soft in the center, the rosewater and sugar make them pasty. If they dry properly, they drink the scent, keep their bite, and turn snowy without becoming wet.
I use mastiha lightly, one small pinch crushed with sugar, because Symi's version should smell clean and floral, not medicinal. Once baked, sprinkle the cookies with rosewater, wait a few breaths, and cover them generously. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, and this is one of the small island sweets that deserves the page.
Symi was a sponge-diving and trading island in the Dodecanese, Ottoman for centuries, Italian from 1912, and formally incorporated into Greece with the rest of the Dodecanese in 1948. Zacharena preserve that island register of Easter sweets: yeast in the dough, mastiha and rosewater from eastern Aegean trade, and powdered sugar used not as decoration but as the final coat that gives the cookie its name.
Quantity
120ml
lukewarm
Quantity
7g
or 21g fresh yeast
Quantity
150g
divided
Quantity
650g
plus up to 30g if needed
Quantity
5g
Quantity
1g
crushed with 1 teaspoon of the sugar
Quantity
3
room temperature, about 150g without shells
Quantity
120g
melted and cooled
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
60ml
divided
Quantity
450g
sifted, for coating
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole milklukewarm | 120ml |
| active dry yeastor 21g fresh yeast | 7g |
| granulated sugardivided | 150g |
| all-purpose flourplus up to 30g if needed | 650g |
| fine sea salt | 5g |
| Chios mastiha crystals (μαστίχα)crushed with 1 teaspoon of the sugar | 1g |
| large eggsroom temperature, about 150g without shells | 3 |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled | 120g |
| mild extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| food-grade rosewater (ροδόνερο)divided | 60ml |
| powdered sugarsifted, for coating | 450g |
In a wide bowl or the bowl of a mixer, stir together the lukewarm milk, yeast, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the measured flour. Leave it for 10 minutes, until the surface looks creamy and lightly bubbled. If it sits flat, stop and replace the yeast.
Pound the mastiha with 1 teaspoon of the sugar until fine. Whisk the eggs with the remaining sugar until loosened, then add the melted butter, olive oil, 30ml of the rosewater, and the yeast mixture. Stir in the remaining measured flour, salt, and crushed mastiha. Knead 8 to 10 minutes, by hand or with a dough hook, until the dough is smooth, soft, and only a little tacky. Add the extra flour by the spoonful only if it smears badly on the bowl.
Cover the bowl and leave the dough in a warm corner for 1 hour 30 minutes, or until puffy and lighter. It doesn't need to double like bread. It only needs enough lift to make the finished cookie crisp and open inside.
Line two baking sheets with parchment. Pinch off pieces of dough about 28g each. Roll each one into a short rope and curve it into a loose crescent, or press it into a small oval, about 1.5cm thick. Set them 3cm apart, cover lightly, and let them rest 25 to 30 minutes, until slightly swollen.
Heat the oven to 170 C / 340 F. Bake the zacharena for 22 to 25 minutes, rotating the trays once, until they are pale gold at the edges, dry underneath, and light in the hand. This is the step that decides them. The powdered sugar belongs on a dry cookie. If the center stays damp and bready, the rosewater and sugar turn it pasty. If it dries properly, it keeps its bite and takes the perfume cleanly.
Spread about half the powdered sugar in a wide shallow tray. Let the cookies stand for 5 minutes, then flick or brush the remaining 30ml rosewater over them lightly. Do not soak them. While they are still warm, turn them gently in the powdered sugar and bury them well. Move them to a rack, then sift the remaining sugar thickly over the top once they are completely cool.
Let the cookies stand at least 1 hour before serving, so the sugar settles into its snowy coat. Store them in an airtight tin at cool room temperature, with parchment between layers, for up to 2 weeks. Sift a fresh veil of powdered sugar over them before they go to the Easter table.
1 serving (about 46g)
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