
Chef Dimitra
Amygdalota Hydras kai Androu (Αμυγδαλωτά Ύδρας και Άνδρου)
Hydra and Andros give amygdalota their island surname: ground almond, sugar, egg white, and rosewater, baked pale so the center stays soft as marzipan.
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Chios mastiha gives these buttery koulourakia their clean pine perfume. Grind the resin with sugar first, shape simply, and bake them pale gold.
Koulourakia Mastichas belong to Chios, because mastiha belongs to Chios. The little resin tears from the southern villages give these butter cookies their pine-clean perfume, a scent that is Greek in a very particular way: not loud, not sweet-shop heavy, just clear enough to stay on your fingers after the last crumb.
The method is simple, but one step matters. Grind the mastiha with a little sugar before it touches the dough. Whole tears cling together and make bitter little pockets. Crushed with sugar, they disappear into the butter and scent every ring evenly. That is the difference between a Chios cookie and a butter cookie with a surprise in it.
Shape them as small rings, twists, or braids, and don't bake them dark. They should be pale gold at the edges, tender when fresh, and firmer the next day with coffee. I keep this one plain on purpose. The region is the dish's surname, and Chios has already given us the thing that matters.
Mastiha is harvested only from Pistacia lentiscus var. chia in the Mastichochoria, the mastic villages of southern Chios, where the organized trade was already protected under Genoese rule in the fourteenth century. The resin received EU PDO status in 1997, legally tying the name to Chios. In Greek baking it scents breads, spoon sweets, liqueurs, and cookies, but its strongest identity remains Chian: clean, resinous, and used with restraint.
Quantity
3g
Quantity
20g
for grinding the mastiha
Quantity
200g
softened
Quantity
160g
Quantity
2
room temperature
Quantity
80ml
room temperature
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
520g
plus a little more only if needed
Quantity
1
for brushing
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for brushing
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mastiha tears from Chios | 3g |
| granulated sugarfor grinding the mastiha | 20g |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 200g |
| granulated sugar | 160g |
| large eggsroom temperature | 2 |
| whole milkroom temperature | 80ml |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flourplus a little more only if needed | 520g |
| egg yolkfor brushing | 1 |
| milkfor brushing | 1 tablespoon |
| sesame seeds (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Put the mastiha tears and 20g sugar in a mortar and crush them to a fine powder. This is the step that decides the cookies. Mastiha is resin, so if you add the tears whole they stick in the dough, clump on the tooth, and taste bitter in spots. Sugar keeps the powder separate and carries the perfume evenly.
Beat the softened butter with the 160g sugar for 3 to 4 minutes, until pale and lighter. Add the powdered mastiha mixture and beat another minute. The bowl should smell clean and piney, not sharp.
Beat in the eggs one at a time, then add the milk and vanilla. The mixture may look a little loose. Don't chase it with flour yet. It comes together once the dry ingredients go in.
Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Add them to the butter mixture in two additions and mix just until a soft dough forms. It should feel smooth and pliable, not sticky and not dry. If it smears badly on your hand, add flour 1 tablespoon at a time, but be stingy.
Cover the dough and let it rest for 20 minutes at room temperature. This short rest relaxes it enough to roll without cracking. Heat the oven to 175C and line two baking sheets with parchment.
Take pieces of dough about 25g each. Roll each into a rope 18 to 20cm long, then shape into small rings, simple twists, or little braids. Keep the shapes even so they bake at the same pace. Place them 3cm apart on the sheets.
Whisk the egg yolk with 1 tablespoon milk and brush the tops lightly. Sprinkle with sesame if you like. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the trays halfway, until the koulourakia are pale gold at the edges and set through. They should not brown deeply.
Let the cookies sit on the tray for 5 minutes, then move them to a rack. They firm as they cool and keep their perfume best once fully cold. Store airtight for up to 10 days.
1 serving (about 28g)
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