
Chef Joost
Appelpannenkoek
The apple pannenkoek is supper pretending to be breakfast: a plate-wide Dutch pancake, tart apple softened into the batter, and cinnamon sugar doing honest work.
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The name tells you to turn the bread, and the older name tells you why: lost bread rescued with egg, milk, cinnamon, and a hot pan.
In my grandmother's second notebook, wentelteefjes sit exactly where they belong: not under feast days, not under company puddings, but in the small economy of a weekday table. Stale bread was never thrown away if an egg and a little milk could still persuade it back into usefulness. Dutch thrift can look severe from the outside. From inside the kitchen, it often smells of cinnamon and butter.
The name already tells you part of the method. Wentelen means to turn, to roll over, and these slices are turned first in sweetened egg-milk and then in the pan until both sides go gold. The older cousin-name, verloren brood, lost bread, is even plainer: bread past its first virtue, found again. But let me tell you a secret. The trick is not abundance. Too much liquid makes the bread collapse into custard before it reaches the pan. You want stale bread, patient soaking, and enough heat that the outside browns before the middle gives up entirely.
This is peasant intelligence, not poverty theatre. The cinnamon in the sugar bowl is the quiet Dutch luxury, one more reminder that a frugal country once filled its cupboards from spice routes. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: yesterday's bread, one egg, milk, a little sugar, cinnamon, butter. Breakfast is served when the edges are crisp, the centre is tender, and nobody at the table believes the bread was ever lost.
Recipes for bread revived in milk and egg appear across medieval and early modern Europe, with Dutch versions known both as wentelteefjes and verloren brood, the same idea found in French pain perdu. The word wentelteefje is old Dutch household language; its first part comes from wentelen, to turn, while the second part is less certain and should not be over-explained. The dish belongs to the thrift kitchen, where stale white bread was made useful again with dairy, egg, and the everyday luxury of cinnamon.
Quantity
8 slices
about 1.5cm thick
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
30g
for frying
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for serving
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| stale white bread or briocheabout 1.5cm thick | 8 slices |
| eggs | 2 large |
| whole milk | 250ml |
| sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| vanilla extract (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| salt | pinch |
| butterfor frying | 30g |
| sugarfor serving | 2 tablespoons |
| ground cinnamonfor serving | 1 teaspoon |
Whisk the eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla if using, and salt in a shallow dish until the egg disappears into the milk. The cinnamon will float a little, because cinnamon is stubborn. Whisk once more before each slice and it will behave well enough.
Lay the stale bread in the custard for about 30 seconds per side, longer if the slices are thick and truly dry. You want the middle moistened but not collapsing. Fresh bread drinks like a fool and falls apart; yesterday's bread has manners.
Melt a knob of butter in a wide frying pan over medium heat. When it foams and smells nutty, add the soaked slices without crowding. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until the surface is deep golden and the edges have a little bite under the fork.
Stir the serving sugar and cinnamon together, then scatter it over the hot wentelteefjes as they leave the pan. Serve at once, with nothing more complicated than coffee, tea, or a spoonful of apple compote if the fruit bowl is insisting.
1 serving (about 150g)
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