Vegetable Spring Rolls

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •14-inch wok or 12-inch skillet
• •Dutch oven or deep heavy pot for frying
• •Deep-fry or candy thermometer
• •Spider skimmer or slotted spoon
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Sheet pans for cooling filling and freezing rolls

Instructions

1. 1

   Rehydrate the mushrooms

   Place dried shiitake mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let them soak for 30 minutes until soft and pliable. Squeeze out excess water firmly, remove and discard the tough stems, then slice the caps into thin strips. Reserve the soaking liquid for another use if you like; it makes excellent stock.

   Dried shiitakes provide deeper, more concentrated flavor than fresh. Don't skip this ingredient or substitute canned mushrooms.
2. 2

   Salt and drain the cabbage

   Toss the shredded cabbage with the kosher salt in a colander set over a bowl. Let it sit for 15 minutes while you prepare other ingredients. The salt draws out moisture that would otherwise make your filling soggy. After 15 minutes, squeeze the cabbage firmly in handfuls to extract as much liquid as possible. This step is essential for crisp spring rolls.

3. 3

   Stir-fry the filling

   Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until a drop of water evaporates on contact. Add the vegetable oil and swirl to coat. Add garlic and ginger, stirring constantly for 15 seconds until fragrant but not browned. Add the carrots and cook for 2 minutes, then the mushrooms for another minute. Add the drained cabbage and stir-fry for 3 minutes until wilted but still retaining some texture. The mixture should sizzle aggressively throughout.

   High heat and constant motion prevent steaming. If your wok isn't smoking hot, work in batches to avoid crowding.
4. 4

   Season and cool the filling

   Add the bean sprouts and scallions, tossing for 30 seconds. Pour in the soy sauce and Shaoxing wine, letting them sizzle and reduce almost completely. Remove from heat and stir in the sesame oil and white pepper. Spread the filling on a sheet pan in a thin layer to cool completely. This takes about 20 minutes at room temperature, or you can speed it in the refrigerator. Warm filling will make your wrappers soggy and tear during rolling.

5. 5

   Prepare your rolling station

   Remove spring roll wrappers from the package and cover with a barely damp kitchen towel to prevent drying. Set up your work surface with the flour paste in a small bowl, the cooled filling nearby, and a parchment-lined sheet pan to hold finished rolls. Keep another damp towel ready to cover rolled spring rolls as you work.

6. 6

   Roll the spring rolls

   Place one wrapper on your surface with a corner pointing toward you like a diamond. Spoon 2 heaping tablespoons of filling in a horizontal log about one-third up from the bottom corner, leaving 1 inch clear on each side. Fold the bottom corner up over the filling and tuck it under tightly. Fold in both side corners like an envelope, pressing firmly to seal. Roll upward toward the top corner, keeping tension throughout. Brush the top corner with flour paste and press to seal. The finished roll should be tight with no air pockets, about 4 inches long and 1 inch thick.

   Tight rolling is everything. Loose rolls absorb oil and turn greasy. If your first few are imperfect, open them up and practice again.
7. 7

   Heat the frying oil

   Pour oil into a Dutch oven or deep heavy pot to a depth of 3 inches. Heat over medium-high until a thermometer reads 350 degrees Fahrenheit. This takes 10 to 12 minutes. While the oil heats, line a sheet pan with a wire rack for draining. Do not use paper towels as a draining surface; they trap steam against the spring rolls and soften the crust.

8. 8

   Fry to golden perfection

   Carefully lower 4 to 6 spring rolls into the hot oil using a spider or slotted spoon. Do not crowd the pot; overcrowding drops the oil temperature and results in greasy, pale rolls. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once halfway through, until the wrappers are deep golden brown and audibly crackling. The sound changes from aggressive bubbling to a gentle sizzle when they're ready. Transfer to the wire rack and let rest for 2 minutes before serving. Bring the oil back to 350 degrees between batches.

   Fry frozen spring rolls directly from the freezer at 325 degrees for 5 to 6 minutes. No thawing needed.
9. 9

   Serve traditionally

   Arrange spring rolls standing upright in a shallow bowl lined with finely shredded cabbage, resembling gold bars in a treasure chest. This presentation honors the traditional symbolism of wealth and prosperity for Lunar New Year. Serve immediately with sweet chili sauce and hot Chinese mustard on the side. If you must hold them, keep finished rolls warm in a 200-degree oven on a wire rack, but don't wait more than 15 minutes or the crisp will fade.

Chef Tips

• •Buy spring roll wrappers, not egg roll wrappers. Spring roll wrappers are thinner and fry to a more delicate crisp. Look for them in the freezer section of Asian grocery stores. TYJ brand is widely available and reliable.
• •The filling must be bone dry and completely cool before rolling. Any residual moisture will steam inside the wrapper during frying, causing bubbles, blowouts, or soggy spots.
• •For Lunar New Year gatherings, set up an assembly line. Assign guests to rolling while you manage the frying. The communal effort is traditional and makes the work festive rather than burdensome.
• •Save your frying oil. Once cooled completely, strain it through cheesecloth into a clean jar and refrigerate. It can be reused two or three times for frying before the flavor degrades.
• •Sweet chili sauce is the expected accompaniment, but I prefer a simple dip of black vinegar with julienned ginger. The acidity cuts through the richness beautifully.

Advance Preparation

• •The cooked filling can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature and blot any accumulated moisture before rolling.
• •Assembled uncooked spring rolls freeze beautifully for up to 3 months. Arrange in a single layer on a parchment-lined sheet pan and freeze until solid, about 2 hours, then transfer to freezer bags. Fry directly from frozen at 325 degrees for 5 to 6 minutes.
• •For large gatherings, prepare all rolls in the morning and freeze on sheet pans. Thirty minutes before guests arrive, begin frying in batches. Keep finished rolls warm on a wire rack in a 200-degree oven until you've fried them all.
• •Dipping sauces can be prepared up to 1 week ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 spring roll (about 21g)