
Chef Joost
Appelpannenkoek
The apple pannenkoek is supper pretending to be breakfast: a plate-wide Dutch pancake, tart apple softened into the batter, and cinnamon sugar doing honest work.
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The dish whose name means bouncer is Dutch plain-speaking at its best: bread, ham, cheese, and soft fried eggs served when hunger needs no ceremony.
The name already tells you this is not a delicate little breakfast. Uitsmijter means bouncer, the fellow at the door who helps the evening end, for obvious reasons usually without consulting the philosophers. The old cafe story says this was the plate you could still get late, when the kitchen was nearly closed and the customers were nearly being thrown out. Bread, ham, cheese, eggs. A final kindness before the door.
But let me tell you a secret: the uitsmijter is not just emergency food. It belongs to the Dutch broodmaaltijd, the bread meal, where lunch and supper can be honest, quick, and still completely respectable. In my grandmother's second notebook, the egg dishes are written without drama, because nobody in that kitchen needed persuading that a soft yolk running into buttered bread was sufficient argument.
The cooking asks for restraint. Fry the eggs gently so the whites set without turning rubbery, warm the ham, let the cheese soften, and keep the yolks loose. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. You are not building a tower. You are making a plate that a tired person can trust.
The Dutch word uitsmijter comes from uitsmijten, to throw out, and also means a doorman or bouncer; the dish name is commonly linked to cafe and lunchroom service, where a filling egg plate could be made quickly near closing time. By the twentieth century it had become standard fare in Dutch cafes, station restaurants, and home kitchens, usually served open-faced on bread with ham, cheese, or both. Its place in the broodmaaltijd, the Dutch bread meal, explains why it is often lunch or a quick supper rather than only breakfast.
Quantity
4 slices
Quantity
as needed
for the bread and pan
Quantity
4 slices
Quantity
4 slices
Quantity
4
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 small
sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| sturdy white or brown bread | 4 slices |
| butterfor the bread and pan | as needed |
| cooked ham | 4 slices |
| young Gouda cheese | 4 slices |
| large eggs | 4 |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| pickles (augurken) (optional)sliced | 2 small |
Butter the bread lightly and lay two slices on each plate. If the bread is very soft, toast it just enough to give it backbone; the yolk is coming, and the bread must be ready to catch it.
Lay the ham over the bread, then the Gouda. If you like the cheese properly softened, slide the plates under a low grill for a minute or set the cheese on the warm ham in the pan. Don't brown it into a crust. An uitsmijter wants melted edges, not theatre.
Melt a little butter in a wide frying pan over medium-low heat. Crack in the eggs and cook gently until the whites are set and the yolks are still soft, about three to four minutes. Salt and pepper them in the pan. If the edges are shouting and spitting, the heat is too high; lower it and let the eggs behave.
Lift two eggs onto each prepared plate, yolks facing up, and serve at once with sliced augurken if you want their sharpness beside the richness. Cut through the yolk at the table and let it run into the bread. That is the sauce. That is the point.
1 serving (about 290g)
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