
Chef Isabel
Banderilla Vasca
Banderilla Vasca is the Basque bar's cold skewer: piparra peppers, olives, pickled onion, gherkin, and anchovy threaded so every bite lands sharp, briny, and salty.
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Txangurro Gratinado is Basque celebration cooking: sweet spider crab folded into a slow onion, leek, tomato, and brandy sofrito, then browned on bread until the top turns crisp and golden.
Txangurro Gratinado is Basque, from the coast where a spider crab is not just seafood but a small event at the table. Txangurro means spider crab, and the dish is the picked meat cooked back into a slow sofrito, the onion base, with leek, tomato, brandy, and a little bread to catch the juices before it goes under the grill. That is what makes it this dish, not a neighbour's crab salad or a plain baked shell.
The method that decides it is the sofrito. Cook the onion and leek low and patient until they go soft, dark gold, and sweet before the tomato goes in. Rush that base and the crab tastes separate, as if it arrived late to its own plate. Let it cook down properly and the sweet shellfish carries through every spoonful.
If you can get live spider crab, good. If not, use freshly picked brown crab or Dungeness crab, and keep some of the brown meat if it tastes clean and sweet. It will not have quite the same deep sea sweetness, but it will make a proper home version. No hace falta haber pisado España. You need good crab, a calm pan, and not too much breadcrumb. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Txangurro belongs to the Basque coast, especially around Donostia and the fishing towns where spider crab came ashore in the colder months and was saved for generous tables. The gratinated version reflects Basque home and society cooking: the crab meat is picked carefully, enriched with a long vegetable sofrito and brandy, then returned to the shell or set over bread before browning. It is often treated as Christmas or celebration food because the crab is dear, and because the work of picking it clean is part of the dish.
Quantity
1, about 1.2kg
picked, keeping white meat and clean brown meat
Quantity
40ml
Quantity
1 medium, 180g
finely diced
Quantity
1 small, 120g
white and pale green part only, finely diced
Quantity
1 small, 80g
finely diced
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
250g
grated, or 200g good canned crushed tomato
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
Quantity
30g
torn small
Quantity
4 slices
for serving
Quantity
25g
softened
Quantity
20g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cooked spider crabpicked, keeping white meat and clean brown meat | 1, about 1.2kg |
| extra virgin olive oil | 40ml |
| onionfinely diced | 1 medium, 180g |
| leekwhite and pale green part only, finely diced | 1 small, 120g |
| carrotfinely diced | 1 small, 80g |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| ripe tomatoesgrated, or 200g good canned crushed tomato | 250g |
| brandy | 60ml |
| dry white wine or fish stock | 80ml |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| day-old breadtorn small | 30g |
| rustic breadfor serving | 4 slices |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 25g |
| fine breadcrumbs | 20g |
| parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon |
| salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
Open the cooked spider crab over a bowl so you keep every drop of juice. Pick the white meat from the legs and body, then add only the clean, sweet brown meat from the shell. Discard the gills and any gritty parts. Taste the brown meat before it goes in; if it tastes bitter or muddy, leave it out. Sourcing wins here, as always.
Warm the olive oil in a wide pan over low heat. Add the onion, leek, carrot, and a pinch of salt, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are soft, dark gold, and almost jammy. This slow sofrito is the dish. Cook it too fast and the onion stays sharp, and the crab tastes thin beside it.
Stir in the garlic for 1 minute, then add the grated tomato, pimentón, and bay leaf. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, until the tomato loses its raw smell and the oil begins to show at the edges. Pour in the brandy and let it bubble hard for 1 minute, then add the white wine or fish stock and cook until the pan looks thick again.
Add the torn day-old bread and stir until it softens into the sauce. Fold in the picked crab and any saved crab juices, then cook gently for 3 to 4 minutes only, just long enough for the meat to warm through and take the sofrito. Taste for salt and black pepper. Remove the bay leaf.
Heat the grill or broiler to high. Toast the 4 bread slices lightly on one side and set them on a small baking tray, untoasted side up. Spoon the crab mixture generously over the bread, or into cleaned crab shells if you have them. Dot with softened butter and scatter over the fine breadcrumbs.
Gratinate 3 to 5 minutes, watching closely, until the crumbs turn golden and the edges of the crab mixture catch in little browned spots. Finish with chopped parsley and serve at once, with small spoons and napkins. It should be rich, sweet, and sea-deep, not heavy.
1 serving (about 265g)
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