Traditional Wassail

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy-bottomed pot (6-quart minimum)
• •Fine-mesh strainer
• •Apple corer
• •Ceramic or glass baking dish
• •Punch bowl, slow cooker, or large serving vessel
• •Ladle

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare roasting apples

   Preheat your oven to 350°F. Core the apples three-quarters of the way through, leaving the bottom intact to hold the filling. Rub the exterior of each apple with softened butter, then roll in granulated sugar until coated. Place in a baking dish just large enough to hold them upright. The butter and sugar create a caramelized shell that holds the apple together as it roasts.

   Choose apples no larger than 2 inches in diameter. Larger apples take too long to soften and overwhelm the serving cups.
2. 2

   Roast the apples

   Pour 1/2 cup of the apple cider into the bottom of the baking dish to prevent sticking. Roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the apples are completely soft and the skins have split. They should yield easily when pressed with a spoon but not collapse into mush. The kitchen will fill with the scent of baked apples and caramelized sugar. Set aside while you prepare the cider.

3. 3

   Toast the spices

   Place cinnamon sticks, allspice berries, cloves, and cracked nutmeg in a large dry pot over medium heat. Toast for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally, until fragrant. You'll know they're ready when the aroma hits you. Toasting blooms the essential oils and gives the wassail a deeper, more complex flavor than simply simmering raw spices.

   Crack the whole nutmeg by wrapping it in a kitchen towel and giving it a firm whack with a rolling pin. Four or five pieces are ideal.
4. 4

   Simmer the cider base

   Add the apple cider, brown sugar, and honey to the pot with the toasted spices. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the orange and lemon slices. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Do not let it boil. Boiling drives off the volatile aromatics and can turn the cider harsh. Reduce heat to low and let it steep for 30 minutes. The liquid should barely move, with only occasional small bubbles rising to the surface.

5. 5

   Add spirits if using

   If including sherry and brandy, add them now and warm through for 5 minutes. The alcohol will not cook off at this low temperature, so the finished wassail will carry a gentle warmth beyond the spices. Taste and adjust sweetness with additional honey if needed. The balance should lean slightly sweet to complement the tart cider and warming spices.

6. 6

   Strain and serve

   Set a fine-mesh strainer over your serving vessel, whether a punch bowl, slow cooker, or large ceramic pitcher. Strain the wassail to remove the whole spices and citrus. The liquid should be clear and deeply amber. Gently lower the roasted apples into the warm cider. They will float. Ladle into cups or mugs, ensuring each guest receives some apple in their portion.

   For the traditional toast, raise your cup and say 'Waes hael' (pronounced 'wass hale'). The proper response is 'Drinc hael' (drink and be healthy).

Chef Tips

• •Seek out fresh-pressed cider from a local orchard if you can find it. The pasteurized supermarket variety works, but fresh cider has a brightness and complexity that transforms the drink. Avoid anything labeled 'apple juice,' which lacks the body and tannins you need.
• •The sherry is traditional and adds a nutty warmth that rounds out the spices beautifully. Cream sherry makes it richer, dry sherry keeps it elegant. Brandy adds heat. Use one, both, or neither depending on your guests and your taste.
• •For a non-alcoholic version that still tastes complete, increase the honey by 2 tablespoons and add a splash of apple cider vinegar. The acidity mimics some of the complexity the alcohol provides.
• •Serve in clear glass mugs if you have them. Half the pleasure of wassail is watching the roasted apple bob in that amber liquid, steam curling above it.

Advance Preparation

• •The spiced cider base can be made up to 3 days ahead. Strain, cool, and refrigerate. Reheat gently before serving, never allowing it to boil.
• •Roasted apples are best made the same day but can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead. Keep at room temperature and float in the warm cider just before serving.
• •For large gatherings, prepare the base in batches and combine in a slow cooker set to 'warm.' This keeps the temperature steady without risk of boiling and allows guests to serve themselves throughout the evening.
• •The whole spice mixture can be measured and combined up to a week ahead. Store in an airtight container away from light.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 315g)