Tortilla de Bacalao Bilbaína

Tortilla de bacalao is Basque, and in Bilbao it belongs on the bar counter cut into small squares, not puffed high like a potato tortilla. Salt cod, onion, green pepper, egg, and olive oil. That is the dish. No potato needed, no cleverness, just the clean taste of bacalao held in soft egg.

The method that decides it is the cod. Desalt it properly first, then cook it gently with the onion and pepper so it flakes but doesn't dry. If you rush the soak, the omelette will taste harsh. If you overcook the fish, the egg can't rescue it. Keep the curds tender and pull the tortilla while the centre still trembles a little. It sets as it rests.

If you're far from Bilbao, no hace falta haber pisado Espana. Buy good salt cod if you can; if not, use firm fresh cod and season it more boldly, knowing you lose the cured depth that makes this a Basque tortilla and not just fish with eggs. Siempre sale, si lo sigues: soak well, cook gently, leave the middle juicy.