
Chef Isabel
Banderilla Vasca
Banderilla Vasca is the Basque bar's cold skewer: piparra peppers, olives, pickled onion, gherkin, and anchovy threaded so every bite lands sharp, briny, and salty.
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Tortilla de bacalao is Basque bar food from Bilbao: desalted cod, onion, green pepper, and eggs kept soft so the omelette stays juicy enough to cut for the counter.
Tortilla de bacalao is Basque, and in Bilbao it belongs on the bar counter cut into small squares, not puffed high like a potato tortilla. Salt cod, onion, green pepper, egg, and olive oil. That is the dish. No potato needed, no cleverness, just the clean taste of bacalao held in soft egg.
The method that decides it is the cod. Desalt it properly first, then cook it gently with the onion and pepper so it flakes but doesn't dry. If you rush the soak, the omelette will taste harsh. If you overcook the fish, the egg can't rescue it. Keep the curds tender and pull the tortilla while the centre still trembles a little. It sets as it rests.
If you're far from Bilbao, no hace falta haber pisado Espana. Buy good salt cod if you can; if not, use firm fresh cod and season it more boldly, knowing you lose the cured depth that makes this a Basque tortilla and not just fish with eggs. Siempre sale, si lo sigues: soak well, cook gently, leave the middle juicy.
Tortilla de bacalao belongs to the Basque Country, especially the bars and cider-house tables where salt cod has long been part of the northern larder. Bilbao's trade in preserved fish made bacalao a practical staple: it kept well, fed many, and could be turned into omelettes, pil-pil, or ajoarriero without needing fresh fish that day. In the tortilla, the point is economy and tenderness, stretching a little cod through eggs while keeping its cured flavor clear.
Quantity
250g
soaked and desalted for 24 to 36 hours
Quantity
6
Quantity
1 medium
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon
for cooking
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
only if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless salt codsoaked and desalted for 24 to 36 hours | 250g |
| large eggs | 6 |
| onionthinly sliced | 1 medium |
| Italian green pepper or small green bell pepperthinly sliced | 1 |
| extra virgin olive oilfor cooking | 2 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon |
| fine salt (optional) | only if needed |
Rinse the salt cod under cold water, then soak it in a bowl of cold water in the refrigerator for 24 to 36 hours, changing the water 3 or 4 times. Taste a tiny flake after soaking; it should be savory, not sharply salty. Drain it, pat it dry, and pull it into small flakes with your fingers.
Warm 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 22cm non-stick or well-seasoned frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and green pepper with a small pinch of salt only if the cod is mild. Cook slowly for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and sweet but not browned.
Add the flaked cod to the pan and turn it through the onion and pepper for 2 to 3 minutes, just until the fish loses its raw look and separates into moist flakes. Do not fry it hard. Bacalao has already done its work in the salt; now it only needs gentle heat.
Beat the eggs in a bowl until the whites and yolks are fully joined, then stir in the parsley. Scrape in the warm cod, onion, and pepper and fold gently. Let it sit for 3 minutes off the heat so the egg takes in the flavor before it goes back to the pan.
Wipe the pan clean and add 1 teaspoon olive oil. Set it over medium-low heat. Pour in the egg mixture, spread it evenly, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, drawing the edges in once or twice so the loose egg runs underneath. The bottom should be set and pale gold, while the top still looks wet.
Cover the pan with a flat plate larger than the pan, turn it over in one firm motion, then slide the tortilla back into the pan. Cook the second side for 1 to 2 minutes only. The centre should still tremble slightly. Slide it onto a plate and rest 5 minutes before cutting into small wedges or squares. Nadie nace sabiendo; if the flip is ugly, the flavor is still yours.
1 serving (about 85g)
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