
Chef Dimitra
Anginares a la Polita, Constantinople Artichokes (Αγκινάρες αλά Πολίτα)
Constantinople's spring artichokes, pale and lemony, braised with potato, carrot, peas, dill, and enough olive oil to make the sauce shine.
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Tinos artichokes and fresh broad beans share one short season, then disappear. Cook them gently with olive oil, lemon, and dill, and you've got a nistisimo island supper for bread.
Tinos anginares me koukia are a Cycladic spring pot: fresh artichoke hearts, young broad beans, olive oil, lemon, and dill, cooked until the sauce turns pale and glossy. This is not a little vegetable side pretending to be supper. On the islands, when the fields give these two at the same time, they go into one pot and feed the table with bread.
The one thing that decides it is the artichoke prep. Trim them bravely, rub every cut surface with lemon, and keep the hearts in lemon water until they meet the oil. Artichokes brown almost before you finish the knife work; the lemon keeps their flavor clean and their color alive, so the beans stay sweet beside them instead of tasting muddy.
Use fresh broad beans if the pods are young and heavy. If the beans are large, slip off the pale skins after a quick blanch, no drama. I write this one as I cook it in spring in Thessaloniki after the laiki, with the dill still wet in its paper. The region is the dish's surname, and here the surname is Tinos.
In the Cyclades, especially on Tinos, artichokes are a field crop as much as a market vegetable; the village of Komi still marks the harvest with an annual artichoke festival. Koukia are broad beans, Vicia faba, a pulse known around the Aegean long before tomatoes and potatoes arrived from the Americas. The oil-and-lemon stew is nistisimo, tied to late Lent and the days around Easter when artichokes and young beans meet for only a few weeks.
Quantity
8 medium
trimmed to hearts, stems peeled, quartered
Quantity
600g shelled
from about 1.8kg pods, peeled if large
Quantity
4 medium
divided for soaking, rubbing, and 75ml cooking juice
Quantity
120ml
divided
Quantity
1 large, about 180g
finely chopped
Quantity
4
thinly sliced
Quantity
15g
Quantity
350ml
Quantity
15g
chopped, divided
Quantity
8g
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh artichokestrimmed to hearts, stems peeled, quartered | 8 medium |
| fresh broad beans (koukia)from about 1.8kg pods, peeled if large | 600g shelled |
| lemonsdivided for soaking, rubbing, and 75ml cooking juice | 4 medium |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oildivided | 120ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 1 large, about 180g |
| spring onionsthinly sliced | 4 |
| all-purpose flour | 15g |
| hot water | 350ml |
| fresh dillchopped, divided | 15g |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 8g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
Shell the broad beans. If they are small, tender, and bright green, leave the skins on. If they are large or gray-green, blanch them in boiling water for 60 seconds, cool them under cold water, and slip off the pale skins. Old skins bring bitterness to a gentle pot.
Fill a large bowl with 2 liters cold water and the juice of 1 lemon. Work on one artichoke at a time: pull away the dark outer leaves until you reach the pale tender ones, cut off the top third, trim the stem to about 4cm, peel the stem, and scrape out any hairy choke. Quarter the heart, rub every cut surface with a lemon half, and drop it into the lemon water. Trim boldly. Tough leaves do not soften into kindness.
Warm 90ml of the olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add the yellow onion, spring onions, and salt. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are soft and sweet but not browned.
Drain the artichokes and add them to the pot with the broad beans. Add 350ml hot water, 45ml lemon juice, the black pepper, and half the dill. The liquid should come about halfway up the vegetables, not drown them. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for 30 to 35 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice, until the artichoke stems are tender when pierced.
Whisk the flour with the remaining 30ml lemon juice and 120ml hot liquid from the pot until smooth. Pour it around the vegetables, not directly onto one spot, and add the remaining dill. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 8 minutes, shaking the pot gently, until the sauce turns glossy and lightly thick. Taste for salt and lemon.
Take the pot off the heat and drizzle over the remaining 30ml olive oil. Cover and let it rest for 15 minutes before serving. Anginares me koukia are best warm, not boiling hot, with bread for the lemony oil at the bottom of the plate.
1 serving (about 360g)
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