
Chef Dimitra
Amygdalota Hydras kai Androu (Αμυγδαλωτά Ύδρας και Άνδρου)
Hydra and Andros give amygdalota their island surname: ground almond, sugar, egg white, and rosewater, baked pale so the center stays soft as marzipan.
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Thessaloniki Easter koulourakia are Holy Thursday butter cookies, braided small, brushed with egg, and baked deep gold so the orange-vanilla crumb stays tender for the week.
Thessaloniki koulourakia paschalina are the braided butter cookies of Holy Thursday, the ones that sit beside red eggs and tsoureki until the Easter table is ready. In Macedonia they are small and ridged from the twist, egg-brushed to a deep shine, scented with orange zest and vanilla, with enough butter to make the crumb tender but not cakey.
The whole tray is decided by the dough. Add the flour slowly and stop when it feels soft, smooth, and no longer sticky; if you chase a firm dough, the cookies bake hard and dry. Let it rest twenty minutes, then roll short ropes and twist them lightly. No squeezing. A koulouraki should hold its shape without fighting your teeth.
I use baker's ammonia here because that is what the old Thessaloniki notebooks keep asking for, and the sharp smell while they bake disappears as the cookies cool. My grandmother Despina kept them in a tin above the coffee cups, not hidden well enough. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, but this one is still very much eaten.
Koulourakia Paschalina are a pan-Greek Easter sweet, but the butter-rich vanilla-orange version belongs especially to the Macedonian urban kitchen, where Holy Thursday baking also brings tsoureki and red eggs onto the table. The name is the diminutive of koulouri, a small ring or twist, and older Greek recipe notebooks often call for amonia, baker's ammonia, because it kept thin cookies light and crisp before baking powder became standard. Island and Asia Minor households scent their Easter cookies differently, which is why the region has to be named.
Quantity
250g
softened
Quantity
250g
Quantity
3
at room temperature
Quantity
120ml
lukewarm, divided
Quantity
5g
Quantity
15ml
Quantity
5ml
Quantity
1 orange
Quantity
680g
plus up to 20g only if the dough remains sticky
Quantity
8g
Quantity
2g
Quantity
1 yolk plus 15ml milk
beaten together
Quantity
25g
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttersoftened | 250g |
| granulated sugar | 250g |
| large eggsat room temperature | 3 |
| whole milklukewarm, divided | 120ml |
| baker's ammonia (ammonia, ammonium bicarbonate) | 5g |
| fresh orange juice | 15ml |
| vanilla extract | 5ml |
| unwaxed orange zest | 1 orange |
| all-purpose flourplus up to 20g only if the dough remains sticky | 680g |
| baking powder | 8g |
| fine sea salt | 2g |
| egg yolk and milk for brushingbeaten together | 1 yolk plus 15ml milk |
| sesame seeds (optional) | 25g |
Heat the oven to 180C conventional, or 160C fan. Line two large baking sheets with parchment. Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together, then dissolve the baker's ammonia in 60ml of the lukewarm milk in a deep cup. It will foam and smell sharp. That's normal.
Beat the softened butter and sugar for 4 to 5 minutes, until pale and lighter under the beater. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each one. Beat in the orange zest, orange juice, vanilla, the remaining 60ml milk, and the dissolved ammonia milk.
Add the flour mixture in three additions, mixing on low or by hand until a soft dough forms. Stop when it is smooth and no longer sticky, even if a spoonful of flour is left. This is the step that decides the cookie: too much flour makes koulourakia hard and dry. Cover the dough and let it rest for 20 minutes.
Pinch off 25g pieces of dough. Roll each one into an 18cm rope, fold it in half, twist the two strands lightly, and pinch the ends together. Set the koulourakia 3cm apart on the prepared sheets. Keep the twists gentle; they should look ridged, not squeezed.
Brush each cookie lightly with the beaten egg yolk and milk. Sprinkle with sesame seeds if using. Do not flood the twists with glaze, or the ridges lose their clean shape.
Bake one sheet at a time for 16 to 18 minutes, rotating halfway, until the ridges are deep gold and the bottoms are honey-brown. Let the cookies sit on the sheet for 5 minutes, then move them to a rack. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Cool completely before storing. Warm cookies trapped in a tin soften at once. Once cool, keep them airtight for up to 10 days, ready for Greek coffee, Easter visits, and the hand that always reaches for one more.
1 serving (about 24g)
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