
Chef Zohra
Poulet M'hammer aux Amandes (دجاج محمر)
A celebration chicken simmered low in saffron onion sauce, browned until golden, then carried to the table with fried almonds scattered over the top.
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Chicken braised with saffron and ginger, hard autumn quinces poached to tenderness, then glossed with honey and cinnamon. A Fassi sweet-savory dish that asks for bread and a full table.
When the first quinces show up in autumn, hard and gold, don't ask them to behave like apples. A quince is stubborn at first. It asks for the knife, then the simmer, then the honey only when the flesh has softened enough to listen.
This tagine belongs to the Fassi sweet-savory table, chicken braised with saffron, ginger, and onion until the sauce turns amber, then the fruit glazed beside it with cinnamon and honey. The why is this: honey goes in late. If you add it while the quince is still hard, the sugar tightens the fruit and scorches at the bottom before tenderness arrives.
Bring it to the table in the dish you cooked it in if you can. This is la cuisine du lien (the cooking of connection) in autumn clothes: khobz torn, sauce passed, one more piece than you counted. Une table, c'est une porte qu'on laisse ouverte, a table is a door you leave open.
Sweet meat-and-fruit tagines belong to the Andalusi-citadin register that took deep root in Marinid Fez in the 13th and 14th centuries, then was strengthened by Muslims and Jews expelled from Iberia after 1492. Quince, sfarjel, appears in medieval Arabic cookery with meat, honey, cinnamon, and saffron, but the exact path from those texts to Moroccan household tagines is not fixed. Lamb and beef versions are older on the page; chicken with quince is a lighter autumn expression of the same grammar, one voice among des cuisines marocaines (not one Moroccan cuisine, but many).
Quantity
1.5 kg
thighs and drumsticks, or a whole chicken cut into 8 pieces
Quantity
3 (about 900g)
scrubbed, quartered, and cored
Quantity
2 medium
grated
Quantity
3
crushed
Quantity
3 tbsp
Quantity
1 tbsp
Quantity
1 generous pinch
bloomed in 3 tbsp warm water
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
divided
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 small piece
rinsed and cut into thin strips
Quantity
1 small bunch
tied with kitchen string
Quantity
3 tbsp
added late
Quantity
250ml, plus more as needed
Quantity
50g
toasted
Quantity
1 tbsp
toasted
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in chicken piecesthighs and drumsticks, or a whole chicken cut into 8 pieces | 1.5 kg |
| firm ripe quincesscrubbed, quartered, and cored | 3 (about 900g) |
| onionsgrated | 2 medium |
| garlic clovescrushed | 3 |
| olive oil | 3 tbsp |
| smen or unsalted butter | 1 tbsp |
| saffron threadsbloomed in 3 tbsp warm water | 1 generous pinch |
| ground ginger | 1 tsp |
| ground cinnamondivided | 1 tsp |
| ground turmeric | 1/2 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| preserved lemon peelrinsed and cut into thin strips | 1 small piece |
| coriander and parsleytied with kitchen string | 1 small bunch |
| honeyadded late | 3 tbsp |
| water | 250ml, plus more as needed |
| blanched almondstoasted | 50g |
| sesame seedstoasted | 1 tbsp |
| sea salt | to taste |
Crumble the saffron into 3 tablespoons warm water and leave it until the water turns deep gold and smells floral. Put the chicken in a wide bowl with the grated onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, olive oil, and salt. Pour in the saffron water and work everything over the chicken with your hands, because the onion and spice have to touch every piece before the pot can do its work.
Set a heavy tagine on a diffuser or use a wide Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Melt the smen, add the chicken with all its onion mixture, the cinnamon stick, and the herb bundle, and turn the pieces for 8 to 10 minutes until the onion smells sweet and the chicken loses its raw shine. Add 250ml water, cover, and let it murmur gently for 40 to 50 minutes, turning the chicken once, until the meat is tender but still holds to the bone.
While the chicken cooks, scrub the quinces well. Leave the peel on if it is clean and yellow; it helps the fruit hold its shape. Quarter them, cut out the hard cores, and work one fruit at a time so the cut sides do not darken. If the pieces must wait, put them in cold water with a spoon of brine from the preserved lemon jar, not fresh lemon.
When the chicken has given you a good sauce, ladle about 250ml of it into a small saucepan and add the quince pieces, cut sides down, with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon. Cover and simmer 18 to 25 minutes, turning once, until the tip of a knife enters with a little resistance. Add a splash of water if the pan looks tight; the fruit should soften without falling apart.
When the quinces are just tender, stir the honey into their pan and spoon the sauce over them until every piece shines. Simmer uncovered 8 to 12 minutes, shaking the pan instead of stabbing at the fruit, until the glaze is saffron-amber and clings lightly. This is the deciding gesture: honey goes in late, after the quince yields, or the sugar tightens the fruit and scorches before tenderness arrives.
Lift the chicken pieces to a warm plate when they are tender. Discard the herb bundle, add the preserved lemon strips to the main pot, and reduce the onion sauce uncovered until it coats a spoon and a little oil glistens at the edges. Taste now. La balance est dans les yeux, the scale is in the eyes, but the mouth has the last word.
Return the chicken to the sauce, arrange the glazed quinces around it, and spoon any honeyed syrup back over the top. Scatter the toasted almonds and sesame seeds just before serving so they keep their bite. Carry the tagine to the table with round khobz for the sauce, and let people reach from the center.
1 serving (about 460g)
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