Sweet Potato Latkes

The latke carries centuries of meaning in a single crisp bite. Jewish cooks across Eastern Europe transformed humble potatoes into something celebratory, frying them in oil to commemorate the miracle of Hanukkah. The tradition traveled to American shores, where it met our native sweet potato and something wonderful happened.

Sweet potato latkes are not a departure from tradition. They're an extension of it. The same technique applies: grate, squeeze dry, bind with egg and a whisper of flour, then fry until the edges turn golden and the centers stay tender. What changes is the color, that gorgeous sunset orange, and a natural sweetness that plays beautifully against sour cream or applesauce.

I've made these for gatherings of six and gatherings of sixty. The secret to serving a crowd without losing your mind is understanding what can be done ahead. Grate your sweet potatoes, squeeze them bone-dry, and hold them covered for several hours. Fry in batches, keeping finished latkes warm on a wire rack in a low oven. They'll stay crisp while you work through the rest. This is food meant to bring people together. The cook should be at the table too, not chained to the stove.

One note on ingredients: sweet potatoes contain more moisture and sugar than russet potatoes. Both affect how they fry. You'll need to be more aggressive about squeezing out liquid, and watch your oil temperature carefully. Sugar burns. Keep your heat steady at 350 degrees and you'll produce latkes that are crisp without bitterness.