Squid and Wakegi with Vinegared Miso (いかとわけぎのぬた, Ika to Wakegi no Nuta)

Wakegi comes into its own in spring, sweeter and rounder than a common scallion, with just enough green bite to keep a plate awake. Pair it with tender squid and sumiso, vinegared miso, and you have nuta: one of those small dishes that looks as if it requires a secret handshake. It doesn't. It asks for good squid, a brief blanch, and a dressing that knows when to stop.

The deciding detail is water. Blanch the wakegi only until it turns a deeper green, then cool it and press it dry. Blanch the squid even faster, just until it turns opaque and relaxes. If either goes into the bowl wet, the sumiso loosens and slides away; if either cooks too long, the dish turns dull. We want each ingredient to stay itself, because nothing here is meant to be hidden.

Nuta belongs to aemono, the dressed dishes that often sit quietly beside rice, soup, and a grilled or simmered dish. In spring, wakegi gives it 旬 (shun), the clean timing of an ingredient at its prime. Dress it at the last moment and serve a small mound in a bowl with space around it. Leave it room. The vinegar should lift, the miso should round, and the squid should still taste clean.