
Chef Joost
Appelpannenkoek
The apple pannenkoek is supper pretending to be breakfast: a plate-wide Dutch pancake, tart apple softened into the batter, and cinnamon sugar doing honest work.
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The Dutch bacon pancake is supper disguised as breakfast: crisp spek set into a broad pannenkoek, with dark stroop proving that salt and sweetness are old friends.
My grandfather never treated pancakes as a treat. To him a pannenkoek was a practical thing: flour, milk, eggs, a pan, and enough patience to feed children who appeared at the table as if summoned by the smell alone. When there was spek, bacon, it went straight into the pan first, because thrift has always understood flavour better than fashion does.
The name already tells you the whole architecture. Spek is bacon, pannenkoek is exactly what it says: a koek, a cake, made in the pan. No mystery, no imported grandeur. But let me tell you a secret: the genius is not the pancake, it is the order of events. Fry the bacon first, pour the batter over it, and the spek becomes part of the structure instead of a garnish sitting on top like an apology.
Then comes the stroop, the dark Dutch syrup. People outside the Netherlands sometimes raise an eyebrow at bacon and syrup together, as if sweet and salt had only recently been introduced. We have known each other longer than that. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: make a thin batter, let it rest, crisp the bacon, and cook one broad pancake at a time until the edges bronze and the centre sets. This is a family-table dish, and it should arrive that way, warm from the pan and already half claimed.
Dutch pannenkoeken appear in early modern household cookery, including seventeenth-century sources such as De Verstandige Kock, where pan-fried batters belong to the practical domestic kitchen rather than the pastry shop. Spekpannenkoek reflects the Dutch habit of making pancakes into a full meal, often eaten for lunch or supper as much as breakfast, with bacon providing fat, salt, and substance in one modest ingredient. The pairing with stroop belongs to the same northern European taste for sweet against salted pork that also appears in griddle cakes and buckwheat dishes across the Low Countries.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
500ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
plus more for the pan if needed
Quantity
200g
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 250g |
| fine salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| eggs | 2 large |
| whole milk | 500ml |
| melted butterplus more for the pan if needed | 1 tablespoon |
| thin-cut smoked bacon or Dutch spek | 200g |
| Dutch stroop | to serve |
Whisk the flour and salt together in a large bowl. Beat in the eggs, then pour in the milk little by little, whisking until you have a smooth, thin batter about the texture of single cream. Stir in the melted butter. If you see a few small lumps, don't wage war on them; they disappear in the resting.
Let the batter rest for 15 minutes. This small pause matters: the flour drinks, the bubbles settle, and the pancake spreads more evenly in the pan. Dutch pancakes should be broad and supple, not thick little cushions.
Set a 26 to 28cm frying pan over medium heat and lay in a quarter of the bacon. Cook until the fat has rendered and the edges are beginning to crisp, turning once if needed. Leave the bacon in the pan. That fat is not a by-product, it is the seasoning.
Give the batter one stir, then ladle enough over the bacon to cover the pan in a thin layer, tilting quickly so it runs to the edges. Cook until the top loses its wet shine, the edges turn golden, and the underside releases when you shake the pan. The bacon should be embedded in the pancake, not hiding beneath it.
Flip the pancake with a wide spatula and cook the second side for 1 to 2 minutes, just until golden patches appear. Slide it onto a plate and repeat with the remaining bacon and batter. Serve each spekpannenkoek with stroop at the table, so everyone can draw their own dark line across the salt.
1 serving (about 250g)
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