
Chef Thomas
A Ploughman's Salad
The old pub ploughman's, shaken loose from its board and laid across butter lettuce with a sharp mustard dressing, for the kind of lunch that feels like you've given yourself the afternoon off.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Flaked smoky mackerel scattered over earthy beetroot with watercress and a sharp horseradish cream, the sort of plate that takes fifteen minutes and tastes like you meant every one of them.
October, and the beetroot are in. Deep crimson things from the Saturday market, still dusty, the leaves wilting but the roots heavy and firm in the hand. This is their season, and the best thing I know to do with them is also the simplest: quarter them, put them on a plate with good smoked mackerel, and let the horseradish do the talking.
Smoke, earth, and heat. Three flavours that were made for each other and need very little help from you. The mackerel brings its salt and oil, the beetroot its quiet sweetness, and the horseradish cuts through both with a sharpness that keeps the whole thing honest. Watercress, because it belongs here, peppery and green against all that crimson and bronze.
This is a Tuesday supper. Fifteen minutes, most of which is spent standing at the counter flaking fish and stirring crème fraîche. There are few better feelings than putting a plate like this in front of someone on an ordinary evening, something that looks like you tried, tastes like you cared, and asked almost nothing of you. I wrote it down in the notebook last week: mackerel, beetroot, horseradish, rain. That was enough to remember it by.
Quantity
2
Quantity
4-5 small
quartered
Quantity
2 generous handfuls
Quantity
2 tablespoons
finely grated
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
half
juiced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
a few sprigs
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| hot-smoked mackerel fillets | 2 |
| cooked beetrootquartered | 4-5 small |
| watercress | 2 generous handfuls |
| fresh horseradishfinely grated | 2 tablespoons |
| crème fraîche | 3 tablespoons |
| lemonjuiced | half |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1 tablespoon |
| dill (optional) | a few sprigs |
| fine sea salt and black pepper | to taste |
Stir the grated horseradish into the crème fraîche with the lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Taste it. You want it sharp enough to make you sit up, a quiet burn that catches at the back of the throat. If it's polite, add more horseradish. It needs to hold its own against the smoke and the earth of everything else on the plate.
Quarter the beetroot and spread them across your serving plates or a wide dish. If you've cooked them yourself, all the better, but the vacuum-packed sort from a good greengrocer work well here. Avoid the ones drowned in vinegar. You want earthy sweetness, not pickled sharpness. Drizzle a little olive oil over them and season with salt and pepper.
Peel the skin from the mackerel fillets and flake the fish into large, generous pieces with your fingers. Don't be too tidy about it. You want rough, uneven chunks that show the grain of the flesh, bronze and gold on the outside, moist and smoky within. Scatter them over and among the beetroot.
Tuck the watercress in and around the mackerel and beetroot. Not on top like a garnish, but through it, so the peppery leaves are part of the dish. Spoon the horseradish cream over in rough, generous dollops. Tear the dill over everything if you have it. A final thread of olive oil. Carry it to the table.
1 serving (about 350g)
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