Shirred Eggs with Cream and Herbs

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Four 6-ounce ceramic ramekins
• •Baking dish large enough to hold ramekins with space around them
• •Kettle for boiling water
• •Small bowl for cracking eggs

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the oven and water bath

   Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 325°F. Bring a kettle of water to a boil, then set it aside. The gentle temperature is essential here. Higher heat cooks eggs from the outside too aggressively, leaving you with set yolks and rubbery whites. We want the opposite.

2. 2

   Butter the ramekins generously

   Using your fingers or a pastry brush, coat four 6-ounce ramekins with soft butter, working all the way up the sides to the rim. Be generous. This butter serves two purposes: it prevents sticking and adds richness to every spoonful. Set the prepared ramekins in a baking dish deep enough to hold water halfway up their sides.

   Cold ramekins straight from the cabinet will set the cream before the eggs hit the oven. If your kitchen runs cold, warm them briefly with hot tap water and dry thoroughly before buttering.
3. 3

   Add cream and the first layer of herbs

   Spoon two tablespoons of heavy cream into each prepared ramekin. Scatter half the chives and half the parsley across the cream, reserving the rest for finishing. The herbs will perfume the cream as it warms, infusing each bite with fresh garden flavor.

4. 4

   Crack eggs with care

   Crack two eggs into each ramekin, working slowly. The yolks should nestle side by side in the cream like twin suns. If a yolk breaks, start that ramekin over. A broken yolk defeats the entire purpose of this dish. Season each with a pinch of flaky salt and a few grinds of black pepper.

   Crack each egg into a small bowl first, then slide it gently into the ramekin. This gives you a chance to fish out any shell fragments and ensures the yolk survives the journey intact.
5. 5

   Add remaining butter

   Place a small piece of the remaining butter, about half a tablespoon, atop each pair of eggs. As it melts in the oven, it will baste the surface and add an extra layer of richness. This is not the moment for restraint.

6. 6

   Create the water bath

   Place the baking dish on the oven rack, then carefully pour the hot water from your kettle into the dish until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. The water bath, called a bain-marie, insulates the eggs from direct heat, allowing them to cook gently and evenly. Close the oven door slowly to avoid sloshing.

   Adding water after the dish is on the rack prevents dangerous sloshing and potential burns. Never try to carry a full water bath to the oven.
7. 7

   Bake until just set

   Bake for 12 to 15 minutes. Watch carefully after 10 minutes. You're looking for whites that have turned opaque and set around the edges while the yolks remain bright orange and jiggly beneath a thin, barely set film. The eggs will continue cooking for another minute after you remove them. Trust the carryover.

8. 8

   Finish and serve immediately

   Using a folded kitchen towel, carefully lift each ramekin from the water bath and set it on a small plate or saucer. The ceramic will be hot. Scatter the remaining chives, parsley, and all the tarragon over the top. Serve immediately with slices of crusty bread for dipping into those golden yolks. This dish waits for no one.

Chef Tips

• •Room temperature eggs cook more evenly than cold ones. Set them on the counter thirty minutes before you begin, or submerge them in warm tap water for five minutes if you forgot.
• •The quality of your eggs matters enormously here. Seek out farm-fresh eggs from pastured hens. The yolks will be deeper orange, the whites firmer, the flavor incomparably richer than supermarket alternatives.
• •For a dinner party, prepare everything through step five, cover the ramekins with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to four hours. Remove them while the oven preheats, add two minutes to the baking time, and you'll look like a genius.
• •Variations abound once you master the basic technique. A spoonful of sautéed spinach beneath the eggs. A grating of Gruyère over the top. A few drops of truffle oil for occasions that demand extravagance. The method remains the same.

Advance Preparation

• •Ramekins can be buttered and refrigerated, covered, up to one day ahead.
• •Herbs can be washed, dried, and minced the night before. Store wrapped in damp paper towels in a sealed container.
• •For entertaining, assemble completely through step five up to four hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Add two to three minutes to the baking time to account for the cold start.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)