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Culinary Explorer
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Purè di Patate
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The Italian approach to mashed potatoes proves what restraint can achieve. Riced, not mashed. Butter and warm milk, nothing more. The potato itself becomes the point.
Side Dishes
Italian
Comfort Food
Thanksgiving
15 min
Active Time
35 min cook•50 min total
Yield6 servings
Americans load their mashed potatoes with cream, sour cream, butter by the half pound, roasted garlic, cheese. By the time they finish, they have buried the potato entirely. What remains is a vehicle for fat. The Italian approach is the opposite.
Purè di Patate requires exactly three ingredients beyond the potato: butter, milk, salt. That is all. The technique matters because there is nowhere to hide. You must rice the potatoes, not mash them. Mashing breaks the cell walls and releases starch, creating a gluey paste that no amount of butter can rescue. Ricing produces individual grains that remain light and fluffy when beaten with fat.
The milk must be warm. Cold milk shocks the starch and tightens the texture. The butter must be at room temperature so it incorporates smoothly. You work quickly because hot potatoes absorb fat and liquid properly. Cold potatoes resist. These are not complicated instructions, but they are precise ones. Follow them exactly.
Potatoes arrived in Italy from Peru in the 16th century but were viewed with suspicion for two hundred years, fed only to livestock and prisoners. It was the devastating famines of the late 1700s that finally convinced Northern Italian peasants to cultivate them. By the 19th century, purè had become a standard accompaniment in Lombardy and Piemonte, its restrained preparation reflecting the Italian instinct that a side dish should complement, not compete.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
starchy potatoes
Quantity
2 pounds
russet or Yukon Gold
unsalted butter
Quantity
6 tablespoons
at room temperature
whole milk
Quantity
1 cup
warmed
fine sea salt
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| starchy potatoesrusset or Yukon Gold | 2 pounds |
| unsalted butterat room temperature | 6 tablespoons |
| whole milkwarmed | 1 cup |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
Equipment Needed
- •Potato ricer or food mill
- •Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- •Wooden spoon
Instructions
- 1
Cook the potatoes whole
Place the potatoes, unpeeled, in a large pot. Cover with cold water by two inches and add a generous amount of salt. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Cook until a knife slides easily into the center, 25 to 35 minutes depending on size. The potatoes should be tender throughout but not waterlogged or falling apart.
Cooking potatoes whole and unpeeled prevents them from absorbing excess water. Waterlogged potatoes make heavy, dense purè. Starting in cold water ensures even cooking from edge to center. - 2
Peel while hot
Drain the potatoes immediately. Working quickly with a kitchen towel to protect your hands, peel the potatoes while they are still hot. The skins will slip off easily. Do not let them cool. Cold potatoes do not rice properly and will not absorb the butter and milk.
- 3
Rice the potatoes
Pass the hot potatoes through a ricer directly into a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Work in batches if necessary. The potatoes should fall in light, fluffy strands. Never use a food processor, blender, or hand mixer. These tools overwork the starch and create wallpaper paste.
If you do not own a potato ricer, use a food mill fitted with the fine disk. A ricer is preferable. Do not attempt this with a masher. The texture will be inferior. - 4
Beat in the butter
Set the saucepan over low heat. Add the butter in pieces and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until fully incorporated. The heat helps the butter melt and distribute evenly. The mixture should become smooth and slightly glossy.
- 5
Add the warm milk
Add the warm milk in a slow stream, beating constantly. The purè should become light and fluffy, holding soft peaks when lifted with a spoon. You may not need all the milk; stop when the consistency is right. Season with salt. Taste. Adjust.
The milk must be warm. Cold milk tightens the starch and makes the purè dense and heavy. Heat it while the potatoes cook so it is ready when you need it. - 6
Serve immediately
Transfer to a warmed serving bowl. Purè di patate waits for no one. It is at its best the moment it is made, light and fluffy and warm. Serve it alongside braised meats, roasted chicken, or any dish that benefits from its quiet, comforting presence.
Chef Tips
- •Starchy potatoes are essential. Waxy potatoes (red-skinned, fingerling) contain less starch and more moisture. They will not produce the same fluffy texture. Russets are reliable. Yukon Golds work well and add slight sweetness.
- •Do not add cream. Do not add sour cream. Do not add cheese. Do not add garlic. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. The potato should taste like a potato.
- •If you must hold the purè before serving, cover the bowl with foil and set it over a pot of barely simmering water. It will keep for 20 minutes. Beyond that, make it fresh.
Advance Preparation
- •Purè di patate does not hold well and cannot be made ahead. The texture degrades within the hour. Plan your timing so the potatoes finish just before you intend to serve.
- •If you must reheat leftovers, add a splash of warm milk and beat vigorously over low heat. The texture will not be the same, but it will be acceptable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 205g)
Calories
245 calories
Total Fat
13 g
Saturated Fat
8 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
4 g
Cholesterol
35 mg
Sodium
410 mg
Total Carbohydrates
29 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
3 g
Protein
5 g
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