
Chef Joost
Appelpannenkoek
The apple pannenkoek is supper pretending to be breakfast: a plate-wide Dutch pancake, tart apple softened into the batter, and cinnamon sugar doing honest work.
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The little pancakes of the fairground table, puffed in a cast-iron plate, soft from yeast and buckwheat, and finished the Dutch way: butter first, sugar after.
My grandfather had strong opinions about pancakes, which is to say he had Dutch opinions. A large pannekoek belonged to supper, rolled and eaten with syrup, but poffertjes were different. They came from the market stall, the winter fair, the birthday table when the room was too crowded and everyone was pretending not to want a second plate. Small food has a way of making adults behave like children. For obvious reasons.
The name already tells you what the batter must do. Poffertjes come from poffen, to puff up, and if they sit flat and sulking in the pan, something has gone wrong before the sugar ever arrives. This is not a crêpe batter in miniature. It is a yeast batter, loosened with milk, strengthened with a little buckwheat, poured into kuiltjes, little hollows, in a heavy plate so each one swells into its own soft dome. But let me tell you a secret: the drama is in the pan, not in the cook.
So we keep it honest. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Let the batter wake properly, heat the poffertjespan until butter whispers at the edges, turn each one when the top is still a little wet, and do not chase perfect circles. The Dutch table has never required perfection, only generosity. Serve them at once, with butter melting into the dimples and powdered sugar falling like the first mild snow you are still happy to see.
Poffertjes were firmly established in the Netherlands by the nineteenth century as fairground and market food, cooked quickly on heavy cast-iron plates with rows of small hollows. Their name is tied to the Dutch verb poffen, to puff or swell, which describes the way a yeast batter rises in the pan. The use of buckwheat links them to an older northern European grain tradition, especially in regions where poor sandy soils made buckwheat a practical crop long before wheat became cheap enough for everyday baking.
Quantity
150g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
7g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
350ml
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
50g
melted, plus more for the pan
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 150g |
| buckwheat flour | 100g |
| instant yeast | 7g |
| caster sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| lukewarm milk | 350ml |
| eggs | 2 large |
| unsalted buttermelted, plus more for the pan | 50g |
| powdered sugar | to serve |
| extra butter | to serve |
Whisk the plain flour, buckwheat flour, yeast, sugar, and salt together in a large bowl. In a jug, beat the lukewarm milk with the eggs, then whisk this into the flour until you have a smooth, pourable batter. Stir in the melted butter. It should be thicker than cream but still loose enough to fall from a spoon; if it sits like paste, add a splash more milk.
Cover the bowl and leave it in a warm place for 45 minutes, until the batter looks lively and lightly bubbled. Do not expect it to double like bread dough. You are looking for a batter that has woken up, smells faintly bready, and gives a soft sigh when stirred.
Set a poffertjespan over medium heat and brush the hollows with melted butter. Give the cast iron time to heat evenly. The first batch is often the cook's tax, pale and unsure, so do not despair. By the second round the pan knows its work.
Spoon or squeeze batter into each hollow until nearly full. Cook for about 1 minute, until the edges look set and small bubbles appear on top while the centre is still a little wet. That wet centre matters; turn them too late and you get dry little cakes instead of soft puffed ones.
Use a skewer, fork, or small turning pin to flip each poffertje in one quick motion. Cook the second side for 45 seconds to 1 minute, until golden in patches and springy when touched. Move them to a warm plate while you cook the rest, brushing the pan with more butter between batches.
Pile the poffertjes onto a plate, put small curls of butter over the top, and shower with powdered sugar. Serve immediately, while the butter melts into the little hollows. Syrup is allowed at some tables, of course, but butter and sugar are the old fairground answer, and they need no improvement.
1 serving (about 200g)
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