
Chef Isabel
Banderilla Vasca
Banderilla Vasca is the Basque bar's cold skewer: piparra peppers, olives, pickled onion, gherkin, and anchovy threaded so every bite lands sharp, briny, and salty.
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This is Basque pintxo cooking: desalted bacalao held in warm olive oil with garlic and guindilla until it turns silky, then served on bread with its own glossy oil.
Pintxo de bacalao confitado is Basque, from the bar counters and home kitchens where a small bite still has to be cooked properly. It is not just cod on toast. It is desalted bacalao, olive oil, garlic, and guindilla held low and steady until the fish turns silky and flakes cleanly, then set on bread so the oil has somewhere to go.
The method that decides it is the heat. Keep the oil barely warm, about 65 C, so the cod poaches, not fries. If the oil bubbles hard, the fish tightens and the surface goes woolly. Low heat lets the bacalao give up a little gelatin into the oil, the same old wisdom behind pil-pil, though here we are making a pintxo, not a sauce.
If you cannot find good salt cod, use a thick fresh cod loin and salt it lightly for an hour before cooking. It will be milder and less deep, but it will still give you the right soft texture. No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need good olive oil, patience, and bread sturdy enough to carry the bite. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Bacalao belongs deeply to the Basque larder because salt cod travelled well and fed inland households long after the boats came in. Basque cooks built a whole family of dishes around it, from bacalao al pil-pil to bacalao a la vizcaína, using garlic, olive oil, peppers, and the fish's own gelatin to make richness from preserved fish. The pintxo is the Basque way of serving a cooked bite on bread or a small plate, especially in Donostia and Bilbao, where the counter is a serious kitchen in miniature.
Quantity
450g
patted very dry
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
4
thinly sliced
Quantity
1
Quantity
12
about 1.5cm thick
Quantity
1 roasted pepper or 6 piquillos
cut into strips
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
only if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| desalted bacalao loinpatted very dry | 450g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 300ml |
| garlic clovesthinly sliced | 4 |
| dried guindilla or small dried red chilli | 1 |
| sturdy baguette or barra slicesabout 1.5cm thick | 12 |
| roasted red pepper or piquillo pepperscut into strips | 1 roasted pepper or 6 piquillos |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| fine salt (optional) | only if needed |
Taste a tiny flake of the desalted bacalao. It should taste seasoned, not harshly salty. Pat it very dry, then cut it into 12 neat pieces, each about the size of the bread slice. Pésalo, no lo adivines: if the cod is too thick in one place and thin in another, cut the thick part smaller so every piece cooks evenly.
Put the olive oil, sliced garlic, and guindilla in a small pan where the cod will fit snugly in one layer. Warm over low heat until the garlic is pale gold at the edges and the oil smells sweet, 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let the garlic brown hard or it will turn bitter.
Lower the heat and slide in the bacalao. Keep the oil at about 65 C, with only the faintest movement around the fish. Cook 8 to 12 minutes, depending on thickness, until the flakes separate with gentle pressure but still look moist and glossy. This is the whole dish: warm oil, not frying oil.
While the cod cooks, toast the bread slices until crisp at the edges but still able to take the oil. Spoon a little of the warm garlic oil over each slice. Lay a strip of roasted pepper or piquillo on top, then set a piece of cod over it.
Spoon a few drops of the confit oil over the cod and add one slice of garlic to each piece. Finish with a little parsley if you like it, then hold each pintxo with a wooden pick. Taste before salting; bacalao usually brings enough salt with it. Serve warm or at room temperature, tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 70g)
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