
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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A thick slab of smoky ham lacquered in brown sugar and mustard glaze, crowned with caramelized pineapple rings and bright maraschino cherries. This is mid-century American cooking at its unapologetic best.
Some dishes transcend their era. Pineapple-glazed ham entered American kitchens in the 1950s when canned goods represented modern convenience and Hawaiian ingredients carried exotic appeal. Critics dismiss it as kitsch. They're wrong. When executed properly, this dish delivers a remarkable balance: the salt and smoke of cured pork playing against sweet tropical fruit, all unified by a glaze that caramelizes into something approaching candy.
The technique is simpler than holiday roasts but demands attention to timing. Your glaze must reduce enough to coat the ham without burning. Your pineapple rings need sufficient heat to caramelize their sugars. The cherries (yes, the maraschino cherries) arrive at the end, a burst of color and sweetness that somehow works despite every instinct telling you otherwise.
I've served this at Christmas gatherings for decades. It feeds a crowd without fuss, holds beautifully if guests arrive late, and generates the kind of nostalgic conversation that loosens even the stiffest family dinner. Your grandmother likely made a version of this. The question is whether she made it well. Follow these instructions, and yours will be the ham people remember.
Quantity
2 (1 inch thick, about 1.5 lbs each)
Quantity
1 can (20 oz)
juice reserved
Quantity
1/2 cup
packed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
8-10
drained
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in ham steaks | 2 (1 inch thick, about 1.5 lbs each) |
| pineapple rings in juicejuice reserved | 1 can (20 oz) |
| dark brown sugarpacked | 1/2 cup |
| Dijon mustard | 3 tablespoons |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons |
| apple cider vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/4 teaspoon |
| maraschino cherriesdrained | 8-10 |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
Combine the brown sugar, Dijon mustard, 1/2 cup of the reserved pineapple juice, vinegar, cloves, and cinnamon in a small saucepan. Set over medium heat and whisk until the sugar dissolves completely. Let it simmer for 3 to 4 minutes until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. You're looking for the consistency of warm honey. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter until glossy.
Pat the ham steaks thoroughly dry with paper towels. Score the fat edge in several places (every inch or so) to prevent curling during cooking. Season both sides with freshly ground black pepper. Salt is unnecessary here: the ham carries plenty. Let the steaks rest at room temperature while your oven preheats.
Heat a large cast iron skillet or oven-safe pan over medium-high heat. Add a thin film of neutral oil. When it shimmers, lay in the ham steaks. They should sizzle immediately. Sear without moving for 3 minutes until the underside develops golden-brown spots. Flip and sear the second side for another 2 minutes. The kitchen should smell of caramelized pork.
Preheat your broiler to high with the rack positioned 6 inches below the element. Pour half the glaze over the ham steaks, tilting the pan to coat evenly. Arrange the pineapple rings on top and around the ham, overlapping slightly if needed. Brush the remaining glaze over the pineapple. The fruit should glisten.
Slide the skillet under the broiler. Watch carefully. The glaze will bubble and darken within 4 to 6 minutes. You want deep mahogany edges on the pineapple and a lacquered shine on the ham. Rotate the pan once for even browning. The moment you see the glaze threatening to blacken, pull it out. Burnt sugar tastes bitter.
Remove the skillet from the broiler and let it rest for 2 minutes. The glaze will continue to set as it cools slightly. Nestle the maraschino cherries into the center of each pineapple ring. They should cling to the sticky glaze. Transfer the ham to a warm platter, arrange the pineapple decoratively around and atop the meat, and spoon any remaining pan glaze over everything. Serve immediately while the glaze still shines.
1 serving (about 210g)
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